Boatcraft & Fitting-Out

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Chart Stowage Solutions (Pub. No. 5075)

(Includes plans for  4 chart cases and desks)

From the instructions for the first case: It is almost impossible to keep a chart flat for working after it has been rolled or folded for some time. Thumb tacks, weights or what not are of little avail, so, if the charts are to be ready for use on a cruiser they must be kept flat and worked on a flat surface. A vertical chart file will provide for filing the charts flat and can be raised to a horizontal position for working where it forms a chart table of suitable size. The largest charts are 26 inches by 48 inches, the other varying according to locality and the scale used. Collect your charts, lay them together to best advantage and make the case 2 inches wider and 3 inches higher than the largest one with a depth of 2 inches. Perhaps it might be advisable to make one reinforced fold in the largest ones for convenience in case size.

20 pages, 1 plate(s)

Rebuilding Boats (Pub. No. 5195)

by William D. Jackson

Tips for rebuilding and improving 12 to 26 foot ouboard or inboard boats.

Can you get a good buy in a used boat--one which is not quite suited to your needs? Thi smight be a good investment if you plan and make your own alterations. The acquisition of a sound hull eliminates the patient labor necessary to construct a boat, and with little extra material the hull may be adapted to your purposes. Heres' how to get started.

9 pages

Installing a Small Air-Cooled Inboard Engine (Pub. No. 5219)

by J.A. Emmett

Little air-cooled engines offer a solution to the power problem of the owner of a small boat who wants the economy, simplicity, and dependability of an inboard engine without its drawbacks in the way of weight and cost. Models from 1/2 to 5 horsepower can now be had from several different manufacturers at reasonable prices; they may drive direct, have a one-way clutch to permit starting the engine at the dock, or be fully equipped with clutch and reverse gear to give maneuvering ability under power. Weights range from under 100 lbs., for the small size up to 200 lbs., for a fully equipped five horse motor. Then there are the new high-speed lightweight models developed along the line of an outboard motor power head but with transmission arranged to run through the bottom of the boat which weigh as little as 42 lbs. for a 21/2 h. p. size.

8 pages

Power Your Boat With a Converted Model A Engine (Pub. No. 5273)

by Orville G. Bolstad, Consulting Engineer

(Or use the same principles to convert a modern overhead valve engine).

In looking around for an auto engine to convert for marine use in the 16 ft. runabout I was building, I pictured in my mind a rugged, reliable 4 cylinder motor of about 50 hp. Immediately it reminded me of the time, 15 years ago, when I had used a Ford Model "A" motor in a propeller-driven sled over the snowbound roads of North Dakota. Remembering how well this motor had served me, with the sled loaded down with cargo and the motor turning hour after hour at 2400 rpm, I decided to use a Model "A". And the plan worked. It doesn’t pay to turn the motor any faster than this, as 2400 rpm is about the peak of the power curve.

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

Round-Bottom or Vee? (Pub. No. 5302)

by B.B. Wood

A remarkable paper on the power requirements of the two general types of runabouts. The test curves and text matter are of vital importance to the designer or the skilled owner.

16 pages, 1 plate(s)

When the Auto Engine Goes to Sea (Pub. No. 5352)

by Hank Holcomb

Save several hundred dollars by doing your own engine conversion.

Not so very long ago, if you had suggested to an inboard motor dealer the iden of converting an automobile engine to marine use, he would probably have raised his eyebrows, patted you on the shoulder condescendingly and said, “Well, Mr. Smith, automobile engines are fine in automobiles, but wouldn’t you rather have a regular marine engine in your boat, something that was designed specifically for a boat?” Nowadays, however, the motor dealer is not so quick to sneer at the marine conversion. He knows that in the last two or three years the boating public has grown considerably wiser regarding such thingss. Many boaters are aware that, in fact, nearly all so-called marine engines of less than 400 hp. are simply converted automobile, truck and industrial engines no matter what you call them. He has learned that manufacturers of regular marine engines buy them and convert them in their factories, in much the same manner as we are going to show you, and then sell them under their corporate name or catchier trade names as marine engines.

11 pages

Installing Steerers and Controls (Pub. No. 5353)

by Bob Whittier

One of the projects most often undertaken by boaters is the installation of motor controls for the remote operation of steering, throttle and gearshift. Many large outboard motors are sold with tailored-to-fit throttle and shift control assemblies, while accessory firms offer a wide selectioa of steerers and motor controls which are adaptable to most makes of motors thanks to a selection of terminal fittings and attachments. At reasonable cost, and in a day or two of work it is possible to rig your own system in dependable and smooth-acting fashion. Remote controls add much to the pleasure, convenience and safety of outboard boating by putting the driver forward in the boat wbere over-the~bow visibility is best, and by affording firmer, more sensitive control of sttering. Although fine how-to-do-it instructions accompany these products, there is much background knowledge not in them which anyone would find helpful .

16 pages

Silent Fishing Partner (Pub. No. 5355)

by Harold P. Strand

An electrically-powered outboard that you can build yourself that fills the bill for children's boats, trolling, and canvas fold-boats,

Fisherman, father, or small boat fan, you’ll find plenty of use for an electric outboard. Designed especially for fishermen who take their trolling seriously, it will also get you on many of the new reservoirs where fishing is prime, but gasoline motors are prohibited. Light weight and silent operation make the electric a partner for kayak-type folding craft and the easiest rig for kids to use while learning their outboard seamanship. The basic design calls for a 6-volt automotive-type generator adapted by resistance controls to be powered by a 12-volt, 66-plate battery. Heavier-duty batteries will, of course, provide longer running times before recharging is necessary. The photograph shows the finished trolling motor mounted on transom alongside a larger outboard; electric is always ready for trolling use. Tested in this way with a 600-lb. gross load, six hours of trollingwere obtained from a single battery charge with continuous speeds of 3-4 mph.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

Propellers for Auxiliaries (Pub. No. 5443)

by Philip L. Rhodes

Ever since auxiliary power became a practical necessity on cruising sailboats there has been a continual battle of opinion regarding the best location for the propeller. While other positions are not out of the realm of possibility, auxiliary propellers generally are placed either (A) on the centerline in an aperture in the deadwood and rudder, (B) off-center where the shaft and heel are supported by a strut, or (C) on the centerline with the wheel completely abaft the hull and rudder where the propeller shaft extends past the stern post or, more recently, through the rudder stock in the manner devised by Paine. The purpose of these notes is to consider the relative merits of these three propeller positions as they affect the performance of a boat both under sail and under power.

8 pages

How to "Glass" a boat (Pub. No. 5476)

by George Emory

All you need to know about fabrics, resins and application techniques to turn out a perfect job.

A new fabric-resin skin will not only strengthen your wood hull and improve its appearance, but also cut your seasonal maintenance to a mere sponge-and-water rinse. Strictly speaking, “glassing” means covering a hull with fiberglass fabric and resin. However, other fabrics having different characteristics are often used to cover boat hulls (people speak of “fiberglassing with Dynel”), so the first step is picking a fabric with the quality you need most. This could be maximum strength or minimum weight. Or, you might want a flexible, abrasion-resistant skin, or decking with a built-in nonskid surface. The fabrics that lead the field (many others have been tried) are fiberglass, Dynel, Vectra and canvas.

8 pages

Right Prop for Your Boat, The (Pub. No. 5479)

by Art Mikesell

There’s a good chance that you can get a boost in performance by switching props. To find out for sure, try this easy test

The sole function of a propeller is to turn power into push. With the right prop your boat will be a joy to operate, an agile, responsive rig running at top efficiency. Any other prop is a step in the wrong direction, because it won’t deliver all the push your engine can provide. Most boats today are running with props that do not quite match the requirements of the motor, hull and boat owner. When you buy a motor, you have to choose a prop on the basis of the motor manufacturer’s recommendations as listed on a prop selection chart. These recommendations are based on horsepower, boat length, gross load and intended use. They’re designed to prevent you from making a bad error in prop selection by limiting your choice to a comparatively small number of propellers.

15 pages

How to Build a Boat Trailer (Pub. No. 5527)

Three Designs by William Jackson, John W. MacFarlane, et. al.

From the First Article: "A Trailer for the boat has many advantages and here is one simple in construction, easy to build, that will last a life time and is highly recommended for your boat, whether you buy one or build your craft yourself. The advantages of this trailer are something like a mobile marine railway. The boat may be used anywhere an auto may go and regardless whether your boat is an outboard, sailboat, or small inboard runabout you are free to explore any waterway and trail your boat home for storage in a safe place, until ready for use again. The first item in construction of a trailer is a suitable axle, wheels, and springs, these parts being readily obtained from junked autos. Select a front axle complete with wheels, while springs may be from any auto, old tires are satisfactory as little wear is encountered in trailing a boat. The axle selected must, have the steering knuckles rigidly secured to prevent the wheels turning in or out and this is accomplished by providing strap iron lugs, bolting over the steering knuckles or better yet by welding the steering knuckles fast to prevent movement. Note: This recommendation was a good one in the days before front-wheel drive cars. It avoided the weight and complication of the differential but added the complication of welding the steering knuckles. Today's best answer is the rear axle from a front-wheel drive car; readily available, no differential, no steering knuckles and, because of the supply, relatively inexpensive.

36 pages, 3 plate(s)

Basic Principles of Sails and Rigging (Pub. No. 5532)

 Sails, sails, sails--small wonder that the average beginner is a little at sea. Well he knows that a sail is nothing more or less than a piece of cloth used in propelling a boat through the water, but of the wide variety of types and of the various strings which control these different sails, his knowledge is painfully scant--so limited that a Ketch is often pointed out as a Yawl, a Knock-about is invariably given its family name of Sloop, and a Bermudian is off-times described in a manner which is not at all salt as, that sassy looking tub with the tipsy mast. In looking at some of these different types of sail, we will consider the location and shape only, for therein lies the key, in most cases, as to which class the boat belongs. First of all, that typical snub-nosed American, the Cat-rig, or rather Catboat, since the hull used with this type of sail is, half-consciously perhaps, always considered as part of the whole. You will notice that there is a single mast, set well forward, with a boom attached to the lower end and a gaff to the top or upper end. The sail is fastened to these three--mast, boom and gaff--and, being single, is naturally the mainsail; also, since the top or head of the sail is supported by a gaff, we have gaff-headed. Thus, a Cat-rig might be roughly described as a single, gaff-headed sail set on a mast well forward without any additions in the shape of either headsails or topsails or added spars. With the addition of a jib sail forward, and a change in the mast location, the Catboat becomes a Sloop, (from the Dutch Sloep). The Sloop rig is the commonest one-masted rig in America, being changed to suit various localities. Some of these changes have been unimportant; others have merited a new name for the rig thus evolved.

24 pages, 4 plate(s)

Repairing Damage to Fiberglass (Pub. No. 5626)

There are millions of pleasure craft of all sizes and types in America. Most boats being built today are made of fiberglass, a marvelous material that has reduced the cost of production, permitting almost production-line methods without the need for expensive, and scarce, skilled craftsmen. Boats with fiberglass hulls also reduce the amount of maintenance work, but there is no material that is maintenance-free. Even fiberglass is heir to many ailments such as crazing-—small “alligator” cracks-—of the gel coat surface; fading and chalking colors under some conditions; cracks due to unusual stress; delamination due to poor construction; leaks around fittings due to improper fastening or crushing of the inner cellular core; separation of the deck from the hull; scratches, gouges, and punctures due to collisions. Here's how to fix these problems.

33 pages

Repairing Damage to Aluminum (Pub. No. 5627)

Aluminum, used extensively in smaller boats, has become popular as a construction material for larger craft, especially cruising and racing boats. This wider use of aluminum, a tough, strong material that is impervious to almost everything except galvanic corrosion, was stimulated in part by its application in 12 meter America’s Cup contenders of recent years. Aluminum, however, is susceptible to dents, and most problems with the material result from boats banging into docks or other objects. Small, shallow dents can usually be pounded out with a mallet by holding a heavy, solid piece of wood on the outside of the hull. The dent can then be removed first by hammering around its perimeter, gradually working towards the center. This booklet explains how to fix this and many other kinds of damage to aluminum hulls.

8 pages

Repairing Damage to Wood (Pub. No. 5628)

In a world of tough fiberglass boats that make the boater’s life much easier, there are still plenty of dedicated lovers of wooden craft. Beside the warmth and character of wood, older wooden boats can be purchased at bargain prices. And many people are more than willing to pay the price of sanding, caulking, and repainting for the amenities they obtain in a tradi—tional carvel, strip-planked or lapstrake hull. For most, It is a labor of love, a rite of spring that is part of the fun and romance of boating. Wood boats, however, can be demanding. Problems have to be taken care of promptly before they become bigger problems.Here's how to do it.

20 pages

Applying a Boat's Name (Pub. No. 5629)

(Painting, Gold Leafing and Carving a Name Board)

Applying the name to a new craft is one of a boat owner’s proudest moments. It allows an individual’s imagination or sense of humor free rein. But then comes the problem of applying the name to the craft’s transom, or on the topsides aft if the transom is occupied by twin outboards. If you have the confidence and skill to do the lettering yourself, you have more latitude in designihg the name and style. But for most people, the safest way to obtain the best results is to transfer letters which are available from a marine or art supply store. This, however, still demands some planning and design. There also are wooden, plastic or metallic letters that are applied with brass fasteners. But these often have a tendency to get broken and fall off. Here are several better ways to do this pleasant task.

10 pages

Installing Transducers for Depth Sounders (Pub. No. 5630)

(Transom-mounted, through-hull mounted, and inside-hull mounted, as well as the indicating instrument.)

Here are the relative benefits of these three types of mounting, together with complete details on the best way to install each.

22 pages

Simplifying Short-Handed Sailing (Pub. No. 5631)

Most trailerable cruising sailboats, mostly those in the 20 to 25 foot range, skippers often find the most challenging conditions. Many of these craft are Spartan in their original equipment. Many of their owners have family crew members who are either inexperienced or a little light for the job. And, too, some venturesome skippers enjoy the solitude and, sometimes, splendor or occasional harrowing experience of cruising alone. For the do-it-yourselfer who likes to be in complete control, there are a number of projects that can make short-handed sailing easier with-out leaving the cockpit.

17 pages

Improving Economy and Performance of Power Boats (Pub. No. 5632)

Fuel is precious—do not waste it! That is the message beamed to boaters and they should heed it not only for the sake of economy, but also to conserve a dwindling energy supply. For a number of reasons, however, the idea of saving anything appears to be repugnant to many who follow a “throwaway lifestyle,” so let us approach fuel saving from another angle—a way to make your favorite recrealion more enjoyable. And that is a fact—-you can get more fun out of boating and save fuel at the same time.

28 pages

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