Power Boat Plans

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Voyageur--A 28-Ft. Power Cruiser (Pub. No. 5348)

A 28-ft. power cruiser with comfortable accommodations for four, a large protected cockpit and double-planked hull.

Combining modern design with simple construction, this trim and seaworthy cruiser offers the amateur builder comfortable living afloat, and at a reasonable cost. For the man who wants to take his family or a small party of friends on a cruise for a few weeks or a month and keep the expenses at a minimum, the boat is ideal. The accommodations plan shows a good-sized trunk cabin with two full-length berths, the backs of which swing up to make two equally large, upper berths, sleeping four in all. Forward of the main cabin to starboard, there’s a fully-equipped galley with sink, stove and a large ice box. On the opposite side to port, is a lavatory and full-length clothes locker. Additional stowage space is provided under the berths. The headroom throughout the house is six feet, one inch, which is unusual for a boat of this size. The cockpit is exceptionally large and protected by a canopy, making it perfect for fishing parties. All steering and engine controls are grouped on the cabin bulkhead at a point affording excellent visibility through the windshield. As the lines show, the hull of Voyageur is a V-bottom type with good freeboard at the forward stations to keep the decks dry in even the roughest going. The boat is a shade more than 28 feet overall, has a beam of nine feet, seven inches and with equipment and four people on board, weighs about 6,000 pounds and draws slightly over two feet of water. The power installation shown on the plans is a Universal Flexi-four engine, developing 40 hp and weighing about 455 pounds. However, any similar engine of the same weight and horsepower may be substituted, provided it is installed at the exact location shown on the plans. This is very important if the boat is to trim and balance properly. It is equally important not to make any changes in the locations of the other major weights in the hull, such as the tanks, toilet and galley equipment, etc. Before getting on to the actual building operations, a word about the double-planking which consists of two layers of regular ¼ in. waterproof marine plywood laid in standard 4 by 8-ft. sheets. The first layer is fastened to the framing with screws and one of the waterproof glues that have been developed especially for marine use. The second layer of plywood is then fastened in place, staggering the seams and butts and using the same glue between the layers. By screwing both thicknesses to the frames and using short screws to hold the layers together between them, the result is virtually one piece of planking that should remain free of leaks for the life of the boat.

16 pages, 4 plate(s)

Skylark--A Sea Skiff (Pub. No. 5350)

A 13-ft. sea skiff with an easily-built plywood hull that can be sailed or driven by an air-cooled inboard engine.

Originally developed by fishermen and others who make their living on the water, the sea skiff design is one of the best hull forms for a small boat, It is quite seaworthy for the overall length, exceptionally dry in a chop and even with a full load aboard, is stable and easily driven by oars or a small inboard engine. With a simple inboard rig and dagger board, she’ll balance perfectly and sail like a charm. Most important of all from the builder’s standpoint, is that the construction is simple and because of the plywood planking, presents no difficulties for even the beginner.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

Whizz--A 21-Ft. Inboard Cabin Cruiser (Pub. No. 5356)

by W. D. Jackson, N.A.

Sleeping accommodation for two ensures that this boat won’t grow to its moorings. Construction is quite simple.

This boat, Whizz, should appeal to those who want their cruisers fast, sporty and small enough to carry by trailer. A small cruiser meant for overnight trips or weekend cruises, it will sleep two persons on cruises and accommodate a party of four for afternoon excursions. With a dependable 50 to 60 hp marine engine or a converted, lightweight high speed car motor, it will make 20mph or better.

10 pages, 2 plate(s)

Victory--A 12-14-16-Ft. Runabout (Pub. No. 5357)

By changing frame positions, you can easily lengthen this outboard runabout.

All requirements for an outboard runabout are met in the Victory sport runabout. Due to a proven method of bottom design, the hull is fast, stable, handles well at all speeds with different sized motors, and has trim and attractive lines. Built of waterproof marine plywood, the construction is simplified and produces a lightweight, strong hull suitable for many uses. To meet every possible requirement of readers, the hull is designed so that it can be built in 12, 14 or 16 ft lengths by making a few simple changes in these plans. This boat is a good project for winter work.

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

Cobra--Fin-Tailed 15-Ft Runabout (Pub. No. 5361)

by William D. Jackson, NA

A Fin-Tailed 15-foot Outboard Runabout

Used with any outboard motor from 10 hp to 50 hp, Cobra will achieve speeds of from 20mph to 45 mph and will leave most kit or professionally-built boats well In its wake. At wide-open throttle, this craft rides on top of the water with a minimum of disturbance and, because of its bevelled chines and trim tabs, ft can make abrupt turns safely and without waste-effort spray.

12 pages, 5 plate(s)

Sea Scout--A 13-Ft. Inboard Runabout (Pub. No. 5363)

by William D. Jackson, N.A.

Be prepared for fun with this 13-footer.

Sea Scout is the type of boat it's name implies—a small inboard runabout with single cockpit destined for use by one to three persons and for fairly high speeds with comfort not found in outboards and convenience comparable with a coupe ashore. If marine plywood is used in the construction, the finished boat will be stiff, sturdy, leak-proof and quite fast, especially if powered by any of the lightweight, high speed marine engines or, if properly converted, there is no reason why any high speed, lightweight auto engine—not exceeding 65 H.P. shouldn’t be used. With an engine of the proper size you’ll have speed and convenience in a sporty little inexpensive craft it’ll be a pleasure to own.

7 pages, 1 plate(s)

Two Sisters--11-Ft. and 13-Ft. Skiffs (Pub. No. 5366)

by Edson I. Schock

Big Sis and Little Sis are both members of the skiff family, even if they are not twins.

Both are fine for rowing and for use with outboard motors. Big Sis is just over 13 feet in length, and Little Sis is two feet shorter. Each will build with minimum trouble and expense. Each will bring happiness for years to come These skiffs were designed as good all-around boats for fishing, picnics, rides, camp utilities, or work boats. The smaller boat is well suited to an outboard motor as she is straight along the bottom and will not squat under power. The larger skiff is cut up at the stern which makes her easier to row. She also would be all right under power at slow speeds, but would not be satisfactory with a large motor, since she would squat at speed. About 21/2 horsepower would be plenty.

4 pages, 4 plate(s)

Pop Gun--An Air-Cooled Inboard Motor Boat (Pub. No. 5367)

by Weston Farmer

Here is a sweet little motorboat with air-cooled inboard power.

She will make a fine fishing boat, especially for trolling, as she has a screw-feed throttle. For ease of construction using standard boatbuilding techniques, the dory is hard to beat. Such a dory hull is Pop Gun. From the design shown here you will get what I think is one of the finest low-pressure launches ever floated. The modified dory is time-tried. It was originated by down-East builders over 50 years ago for saltwater use. Here in Pop Gun I have merely modified the modifications so as to remove all traces of crankiness, so there is nothing experimental about her. She resembles closely the product of any of a half-dozen eastern seaboard boatshops. Hundreds of such boats have been built, powered with air-cooled inboard engines of the air-cooled industrial type, such as the 1 hp Briggs and Stratton, or the inboard Lausons, made by the Lauson Mfg. Co., New Holstein, Wis., or the Wisconsin, made by the Wisconsin Motor Mfg. Co., Milwaukee, Wis. The Pop Gun shown here is Briggs and Stratton powered, 1 hp, using a 2-blade left-hand outboard prop, 9" diameter by 7” pitch. Speed, about 7 mph. The whole idea of the boat wraps up into a rig in which you can turn the kids loose for a day’s exploration secure in the knowledge they’ll be back in time for dinner if they have sense enough to know when to turn around. They cannot capsize her, and her gas tank, magneto—the works—are in one hunk, rainproof and get-at-able under the deck. She’ll go all day on 50 cents’ worth of gas. And despite the fact that it usually rains Saturdays, Sundays and holidays when Dad gets her, she is a trolling boat with a nifty nose for fish. In this department Pop Gun will be a companion of the hunt in the same sense a good retriever is. By using a plain screw-feed throttle rod from deck to carburetor, you can adjust the chuff and blat of Pop Gun’s exhaust so delicately you can get exactly the trolling throb you want. Dressed then in slicker and storm hat, you can ghost all day in the drizzle and snake in your strikes. Under the deck the motor will be dry and won’t change pace. The process of building Pop Gun is simple. It will be old hat to any man who can get a smooth cut.

10 pages, 2 plate(s)

Scram Pram (Pub. No. 5370)

by Weston Farmer

Designed as a utility speeder, this simple craft will prove thrilling to handle when powered by motors of not over ten horsepower. She will make an out-and-out racer with the addition of a small steering bridge. She is an ideal boat for the novice to build.

Scram pram is not the latest mechanized plywood version of a Chinese junk, though her name smacks that way. “Scram” is Old English, meaning “to scuttle.” “Pram” is also English—the term for a sawed-off punt. Therefore Scram Pram is really a scuttle punt. Her form is hundreds of years old. Why bother, then, you ask, to publish something that is essentially ancient? Hah! There’s something new on the marine scene that brings the old British pram into her own: Plywood and light outboards with real wallop. This combination of low-pounds-per-horsepower likes to plane. Now plywood comes to you as a plane surface. The trick of screwing these plane surfaces to a form, deflecting them to curved surfaces as little as possible, requires a simple form and frame. This is where the pram form steps up and says, “I’m it!'

11 pages, 3 plate(s)

Sundance--An Outboard Cruiser (Pub. No. 5371)

by Weston Farmer

The basic function of any cruiser is to go places, and this technically excellent little cruisemite is designed to do just that—she’ll build from materials obtainable everywhere, and you can count on her to handle big water.

If you are one of the many who are dreaming of an outboard cruiser, you will do well to read of Sun Dance here. She is distilled out of an experience with outboard “cruisers” which stretches over the last 26 years. It was in April of 1928 that the plans for the first planing V-bottom outboard cruiser appeared in print. This boat was named Quadster. She was designed for the then new 18 hp four-cylinder Elto. A great many of these hulls were built. I had the good fortune to have designed her, and have designed a number of others since then. Now, as I get into the business of planning the latest of this line of successful boats, I have again been involved in doping out a hull shape which will best fit the real usage to which such a craft is put. Again I come to the same basic conclusions about outboard cruisers. Out of this has evolved Sun Dance—an excellent bottom, a hull made a little better by a knowing arrangement plan, but basically embodying the same integrity toward wind, wave, rain and motor that has characterized the earlier hulls. They were all dandy boats.

12 pages, 4 plate(s)

Poor Richard--A 21-Ft. Skipjack-Type Power Cruiser (Pub. No. 5372)

by Weston Farmer

The Chesapeake skipjack hull is more noted for economy and ease of building than for good looks, but in Poor Richard, designer Weston Farmer has turned his talent for lovely boats to producing a skipjack with yachty lines. On one basic hull you can select an arrangement of your own choice.

Benjamin Franklin's proverb boy, Poor Richard, made great virtue of economy. Since economy is her greatest virtue I have christened this skipjack hull Poor Richard. Usually if one goes to the native builders on any great regional body of water he finds a-building there boats that are perfect for local conditions. This is true of the Chesapeake, which the writer knows well. The Bay is a varied body of water, shallow in spots, narrow in some, deep at places, and is both fresh and salt. The native boat of the Chesapeake is the diamond-bottom boat, grandfather of the modern V-bottom boat, and is called locally a skipjack. Skipjacks are good in fresh- and salt-water behavior. They love a chop, are fine in a wind, and drive easily. They are, moreover, very inexpensive to build. Now any boat that Father Neptune has liked as a type for hundreds of years is bound to make a good knockabout hull on which the back-yard boatbuilder may add his own private arrangement plan. To show the versatility of the type, I’ve drawn eight adaptations on the 21-foot hull for which the basic offsets and constructions plans are given.

12 pages, 3 plate(s)

How to Build Kathy--A 20-Ft. Outboard Runabout (Pub. No. 5377)

by Don Rodney

The arrangement plans reveal full-length berths extending under the forward cockpit, galley, toilet and stowage space.

A friend said to me, “To satisfy my various likes and dislikes,” he replied, “I would need to own two boats; an outboard runabout for breezing about on the lake during the day and an outboard cruiser for ‘gunk-holing’ and overnight cruising. I like the runabout with its windshield and open cockpit where you can sit up forward on comfortable cushions and clearly see the water ahead. I also like the runabout because one can get farther away from the motor. On the other hand, while I like all the cabin accommodations of a cruiser with its comfortable berths, galley and toilet, I don’t like the arrangement with the wheel on the after cabin bulkhead so that one must do all his navigating while trying to see out over a long cabin top. A wheel within the cabin structure is not the answer to that problem either. I get claustrophobia when I am confined within a small cabin and can’t get out to handle dock lines and one thing and another. If someone would only combine an outboard runabout and an outboard cruiser into one boat, perhaps I would be interested.” “What you are looking for,” we said, somewhat facetiously, “is an outboard cruis-about.” We didn’t have any specific ideas on this type of hybrid design but one afternoon, we came upon an advertisement for a Matthews cruiser complete with forward cockpit. The forward cockpit was nothing new to us but what did interest us was the fact that the berths were extended up forward under the cockpit seat, thus saving a few feet in overall length. This gave us the clue as to how we could arrange a forward cockpit, a roomy cabin with full-length berths, a galley and a semi-enclosed head, plus a six-foot after cockpit; all in a boat only 20 feet in length.Beginning at the bow we find the customary rope locker beneath the forward deck followed on the upper level by the forward cockpit. This is complete with a curved Plexiglas windshield and spray wings. Complete controls mounted in this location will permit full control of the outboard engine as far as forward and reverse shift and throttle control are concerned. With the canvas top cover in place, there is no reason why this forward seat should not be used as an auxiliary berth since it is over six feet in length and comfortably wide. Access to the cabin interior is through the bulkhead door on the starboard side. This door is divided similarly to a “Dutch door” for a specific reason. For ventilation purposes the top half of the door is hinged along its upper edge so that it can be folded inward against the cabin ceiling where it is hooked in place. The bottom section is hinged along its outboard side and swings back into the cabin. Since the lower section also forms the backrest of the right-hand portion of the cockpit seat, it will normally be closed and latched in place. The top half can be left open for ventilation or closed as desired. Inside the cabin structure, the typical outboard cruiser arrangement of two generous, 6-foot 6-inch berths is to be found. These run fore and aft along either side of the hull and make use of the available space under the forward cockpit which otherwise would be useful only for stowage. The two berths are spaced approximately 26 inches apart so that there is formed a liberal gangway or walk space running the full length of the cabin. This gangway leads into the galley on the starboard side and the head on the port side. These units are separated from the berths by partial bulkheads rising about 41 inches above the floor. Opposite, on the port side, is a raised platform of the same area as that occupied by the galley. Here is mounted a pump-type marine toilet. By the installation of a curved curtain pipe, as shown in the plan layout, this area may be curtained off for greater privacy. Careful attention has been given to the matter of private locker space by the inclusion of three fair-sized drawers, one under each of the two berths and the third sliding under the center extension between the two berths. Additional stowage is available under the berths through the handholes provided and also under the forward cockpit floor ahead of the berths. At the rear of the cabin enclosure is a folding door which leads out into the after cockpit. It is double-hinged so that it will fold flat against the cabin bulkhead without covering up the toilet window. Almost on the level with the cockpit floor is a screened, louvered vent to allow additional ventilation throughout the little ship. Plenty of cabin ventilation while lying at a mooring does much to prevent mildew and discourage dry rot. The after cockpit is approximately six feet square and affords a comfortable lounging space for a limited number of occupants whether under way or lying at anchor. The motor box which covers the outboard engine is sound-insulated to suppress most of the noise. This engine box is not entirely without use and an unwanted obstruction in the cockpit for it is about the correct height for sitting and makes a good seat.

20 pages, 4 plate(s)

Crab--A 22-Ft. Shallow Draft Hydro-Jet Cruiser (Pub. No. 5378)

Designed by William J. Deed

There are many areas of beautiful waters for boating where “the bottom is very close to the top,” where mud and sand banks, weeds and grass, small twigs and branches of trees are too numerous to permit the usual propeller-driven craft to operate. The propeller in such waters is quickly rendered useless by winding itself in grass and weeds no matter how well protected and installed in a tunnel. In such waters Hydrojet propulsion is the answer, since it has no propeller, strut, shaft, rudder or other fittings below.     In the flat bottom of the boat there is a screen admitting water to the pump which discharges the water into a jet nozzle protruding only 3½ inches below the bottom of the boat. This pump discharges about 1100 gallons of water into the jet nozzle, which turns all around 360 degrees. When pointing aft the boat is driven forward and when pointed forward the boat is driven astern. When the jet faces toward port or starboard it drives the stern in the opposite direction. So there is no rudder required, but a lever and control combine to operate the jet and the water supply to it. This takes the place of steering wheel and gear, the engine having no reverse gear, operating in one direction all the time. We are speaking of the Hanley-Kermath Hydrojet unit which has pioneered this field with its Model 60 unit consisting of a modified 61 h.p. Kermath Sea Jeep engine and the pump and jet units. These are shown in the plans of Crab herewith. It is easy to see why we have named her Crab, since, like a crab, she can operate in any direction in shallow water. If she gets stuck in the mud or sand you can simply reverse the nozzle and throw the jet of water against the bank of mud or sand and wash or jet the boat free. The extreme draft of the boat including the jet is but 101/2 inches. She is no express cruiser; if you expect to travel fast don’t build her but if you expect a 10-mile boat in which you can cruise in a foot of water where there is a bit of puddle-jumping to do then Crab is your boat.

8 pages, 4 plate(s)

Fisherman--A 9-Ft. Featherweight Utility (Pub. No. 5379)

Fisherman is designed primarily for easy transportation by automobile. It does not need a special trailer but can be simply carried on the top or back of a car or on a house trailer. It is the ideal fishing boat for use on those hard-to-reach lakes, which today yield the biggest catches. Although it can be rowed easily it is particularly adapted for use with small outboards up to 6 h.p., and so is also suitable for use as a small utility runabout, tender or playboat. In designing Fisherman, it has been borne in mind that many who have had no previous boat building experience naturally make their first boat a small one. All the way through, then, construction has been made just as simple as possible, while an unusual number of details are given in the article, to help the man who will build in Fisherman his first boat. Large enough to hold three adults, it can be built to weigh as little as seventy-five pounds, complete, by using light cedar planking and cedar and spruce framework. The principal measurements are: length over all, 91/2 feet, beam, 42 inches, and depth, 13 inches.  It may be built with three seats and a short deck or can be decked over to frame No. 3, omitting the front seat. The weight would be about the same either way. The batten-seam construction used not only decreases the weight greatly but prevents leaking no matter how long the boat may be dried out.

6 pages, 3 plate(s)

Apple Sauce--A Fast Little Speedster (Pub. No. 5380)

by F.T. Irgens

A clever design and building instructions for an inexpensive little outboard boat which anyone can build

Speed and continually more speed is the demand of the outboard motor enthusiast these days. Designers have been producing new types and styles of little boats intended particularly for outboard motor propulsion in large numbers. The design presented herewith represents the result of much experimental work, and is a most succssful little boat for its purpose. When equipped with any of the modern 4 h. p. outboard engines, it will easily do 20 m.p.h., and is also able and seaworthy considering its type and size. The idea underlying the preparation of this design is to permit the outboard motor enthusiasts to construct an inexpensive and speedy craft. With this thought in mind, the designer has arranged his materials so as to eliminate difficult carpenter work, and permit the boat to be constructed with simple and ordinary tools. The addition of the dummy keel gives the boat the appearance of a Vee bottom craft, and also gives it exceptional maneuvering ability. This keel has not the disadvantages of the flimsier metal fin. By carrying the Vee bottom all the way to the transom, all of the bottom sections of the ribs are identical, and the boat will bank nicely when rounding a turn.

5 pages, 4 plate(s)

Flyer--A 10-Ft. Midget Runabout (Pub. No. 5381)

by Willard S. Crandall. Design by Bruce N. Crandall.

The Flyer Midget runabout is a unique design that shouid fill a long standing need. It is only ten feet long; and the bottom design and weight balance of this little boat is such that it will actually plane with outboard motors so small they are hardly ever considered in relation to speed. The many small motors in the five-to-ten horsepower range can be used successfully on this boat. Because of the hydroplane design a very maximum of speed is obtained from these motors, often much more than their owners thought them capable of. A sixteen horsepower motor is the largest size recommended. Like all Flyer designs, simplicity of construction is stressed. The stem, for example, is the simple racing boat style. The total weight runs about one hundred and twenty-five pounds. The roadster cockpit is built to accommodate two persons. Here is a chance to get some revs out of a fishing motor. The ease of construction, low building cost and speed possibilities of the boat make it a wonderful addition to the family of any boatman who has a small outboard motor.

9 pages, 3 plate(s)

Flash--A Fast Outboard (Pub. No. 5382)

Designed by C. A. Nedwidek

A speedy little hydroplane adapted to class B and C engines simply designed and easy to build.

Small outboard engined hydroplanes are in great demand among the coming generation of yachtsmen. Speed is what they want and they will be content with nothing but the fastest boats. Our design is for a smart little hydroplane adapted to Class B and C engines. It is not suited to the larger engines and would require the addition of squatboards on the hull aft to provide increased planing area. The construction has been kept as simple as possible so that no difficulties should be encountered in the work. A great deal of pleasure and recreation will be derived from the work of building this little job.

4 pages, 2 plate(s)

Plyabout--A Sturdy, 13-Ft. Light Utility Boat (Pub. No. 5383)

by Bruce N. Crandall

Plyabout has been designed to meet exactingly the requirements of the average fisherman. Its wide range of usefulness extends from small-creek to deep-sea fishing, while in calm water it will carry as many as six persons. This 13-foot modern utility boat can be built to weigh anywhere from 125 to 175 pounds. Outboard motors from 1 to 10 h.p. may be used for speeds of from 5 to 20 m.p.h. Two men can launch it easily almost anywhere; it can be carried about on a small trailer or even on top of a car. The lines are such that even 3/8-inch plywood may be easily bent into position, while the bottom design provides for efficiency with a small motor and for easy rowing. Heavier materials than specified must not be used, as the boat would then be harder to row. Intended for the hardest kind of usage, Plyabout is of exceptionally sturdy construction. Plywood is, of course, a material both tough and strong, but it is susceptible to damage from contact with submerged stumps or rocks, or from continuous rubbing on any sharp object. The construction of Plyabout has therefore been arranged so that either half of the bottom may be very easily and quickly removed and replaced with a new piece of plywood, only a few hours’ labor being involved. The framework is so strong that this may be done without the slightest possibility of the boat changing shape in any way.

12 pages, 3 plate(s)

Black Arrow--A 13-Ft. Outboard Racing Runabout (Pub. No. 5384)

by Bruce N. Crandall

Because of the constantly increasing popularity of outboard runabout racing and the adaptability of waterproof marine plywood to this type of hull, many requests have been received for a new racing runabout which ccculd be easily built with this material. This new boat is a development from the Flyer Racing Runabout which set many runabout class records since the first appearance of its design. Except for the narrowing of the running surface by the addition of the lap in the bottom the underbody of this new boat is essentially the same as that of the Flyer Racing Runabout. The boat may be built with or without the lap, as desired. So as to simplify planking with waterproof plywood, the sides, bevelled chines, and forward part of the bottom have been redesigned. The use of this plywood planking results in increased strength, easier construction, and a smoother bottom, and also allows the boat to be built without difficulty as light as 200 pounds for class C racing. The principal measurements are as follows: length over all, 13 feet 2 inches; water line beam, 491/4 inches, and height of sides amidships, 141/2 inches.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

Flyer Racing Runabout--An Outboard Design (Pub. No. 5385)

by Willard Crandall. Design by Bruce N. Crandall

Recent summer seasons saw outboard runabout racing, which has long been popular on the Pacific Coast, gain a foothold over the entire country. The Flyer Racing Runabout has been designed for the stiffest competition, numerous experiments and long experience with West Coast runabout racing contributing toward the finished design. While simplicity of construction is stressed in this design, speed is in no way sacrificed. This racing runabout is the result of years’ experience in designing, racing and actual manufacture of racing boats on the Pacific Coast. It turns sharply, handles well in rough water and has plenty of speed. Bevelled chines make the craft non-tripping, yet the beam is sufficient to keep it riding high at full speed. The overall length is 13 feet and 1/2 inch, and the beam 48 inches. The boat can be raced in the four runabout classes—class F, class E for service motors, and class C for racing motors and for service motors.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

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