Sail Boat Plans

Sort By:  
20-Ft. Waterline Sloop (Pub. No. 5761)

by Edson I. Schock


Salty and able, this little sailing craft is roomy enough for two on a cruise, easy to handle and designed for the amateur builder.

This boat was designed small enough to be convenient for day sailing, large enough for two folks to cruise in without being too uncomfortable, shallow draft for little harbors, and light enough to be carried about on a trailer. The rig has been kept simple so that one man can sail her. The construction is for amateur builders, using plywood for planking, and V-bottom hull form. She should present no building problems. An outboard motor, either over the stern or in a well will provide plenty of auxiliary power. Five hp is enough

18 pages, 5 plate(s)

How to Build Gemini (Pub. No. 5763)

by David D. Beach

LOA 21' 1 1/2", BEAM 7 3/4"

Bowing to the increased interest in twin-hulled craft, this creator of advanced designs comes up with a 21’ catamaran cruiser powered by two big outboards.

The catamaran has demonstrated the principle that two narrow hulls pound less than one hull having the same total planing area. The proof of this is in the performance of this type of craft in rough-water races where the cats regularly win and place out in front of the conventional hulls. While they are not, in themselves, that much faster than other boats, they can be driven harder without punishing the passengers beyond the limits of comfort. They win because their crews take less beating in the waters that jar and bruise the occupants of standard-hull craft. Gemini is a catamaran outboard cruiser which will appeal to builders in many areas of the country. It is ideal where waters demand the need for sea-kindliness, shelter and speed. Do you run over to Catalina, do you cruise north through the Straits from Seattle, or do you have to cross Lake St. Clair? How about pushing up from the keys against a northerly breeze, or getting caught on Ponchartrain? Even the race to the south of Fishers Island can be a pretty miserable body of water at times. But it won’t phase Gemini. The twin hulls have ample freeboard, carry their deadrise all the way aft, and there is just the right amount of beam to permit efficient planing with modest powers. Let’s look at Gemini, starting with the Outboard Profile and Deck Arrangement Plan. This shows that the craft has an ample foredeck with good visibility all around from the cabin. The cabin proper encloses the midships section of the craft, leaving a modest after cockpit which is the full width of the craft. The stern is cut for two longshaft in-line outboard motors of up to 70 hp each. The cabin top is fitted, as shown, with a Solaria-type sunroof. This feature makes a substantially open boat of Gemini, with the cabin roof capable of being opened to the sky. Around the raised cockpit, with its full-width flush deck, is a low rail which provides a distinctive styling effect as well as a measure of safety for the younger members of the crew. The Inboard Profile and Arrangement Plan should be shown to the lady of the family, for the arrangement will certainly convince her that Gemini offers much comfort which will make her boating hours quite enjoyable. Point out to her the wide seats forward, and how they convert to sun lounges or berths, each wider than a studio couch. The headroom forward of the galley counter and the completely enclosed toilet space and dressing compartment is full for most wives, and adequate for all but the tallest men. The size of the rear cockpit is almost enough to qualify it as a “back porch.” Certainly those two chairs will illustrate that trolling over the transom presents no problem. Note how simple boarding the craft can be with a ladder over the transom and the hinged section of cockpit railing on the centerline. We think that some small amount of daydreaming will convince you that Gemini is ideal for most purposes.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

Junior Nine-Footer, The (Pub. No. 5764)

by Edson I. Schock


This is a sailboat that a beginner can build and a child can learn to sail. Just over 9’, she is V-bottom, cat-rigged and made of plywood.

This V-bottom catboat is wide enough to be quite safe for youngsters, yet fast enough to be fun to sail. Anyone with reasonable skill in wood-working should build her without any difficulty.

16 pages, 4 plate(s)

Small Cruising Sloop, A (Pub. No. 5775)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 27' 11", BEAM 8', DRAFT 5' 6', DISPLACEMENT 7,120 LBS., SAIL AREA 323 SQ. FT.

You’ll have a lot of fun at the helm of this smart-looking little auxiliary. She has nice lines and should step out well under sail.

This boat was designed for the amateur builder with a good grasp of boatbuilding fundamentals and considerable woodworking skill. He should have built a boat or two before trying this one. Ownership of such a boat, however is not limited to the experts. You can have a boatyard build a “planked hull" for you, consisting of the stem, keel, ballast keel, transom, floors, frames, engine bed, shaft hole bored, planking and clamps. From here you take over, decking her and building the cockpit and cabin, doing the interior work and installing spars, rigging and hardware. By starting from a “planked hull,” you eliminate the steaming and the heavy work, and you do the fussy part, which takes a lot of time. Time is what you pay for in a boatyard, so by this method you save a lot on the cost of the finished boat. This is really a very satisfactory way to build a boat.

12 pages, 5 plate(s)

Sea Surrey--A New Type of Catamaran (Pub. No. 5778)

by Gordon P. Manning

LOA 20', BEAM 8'

You can have a picnic aboard this 20’ pleasure barge. With no bilges to pump, you sit back and concentrate on having fun afloat

If you’ve ever wanted to build your own boat but hesitated because of the difficulty of making it watertight—here’s the craft for you. There are no complicated underwater joints to make, because it floats instead on four large blocks of Styrofoam, the miracle flotation material. With few underwater parts to concern you, the job consists mainly of building the plywood deck, floats, rails, canopy and control box. It’s a cinch, because you do straightforward hammer-and-saw carpentry most of the way. The finished catamaran, measuring 20’ long by 8’ wide, is a wonderful pleasure barge for use in protected waters. You just can’t beat it for fishing, swimming, sunning yourself, family picnics and the like. Drawing only 10” of water, it goes anywhere and can be run right up onto the beach. It will take any outboard motor from 10 to 40 hp. The 10-hp Evinrude we used on the pilot model was just perfect, pushing her at an estimated 7 to 8 mph. The complete boat will weigh about 1200 lbs., so you can trail it anywhere with a two-wheel trailer. And remember, cats like this sell on today’s market for two to three times what this one will cost you.

21 pages, 5 plate(s)

Wendy Two--A Featherweight Class 10' Sailing Dingh (Pub. No. 5779)

by Charles Bell

LOA 10', BEAM 4' 3"

An application of the drape mold method of fiberglass construction in which frame members and a muslin drape form the hull shape and are bonded integrally to the fiberglass.

Wendy Two takes her name from a 10’ dinghy I designed for my book, Row To Build Fiberglass Boats. The first boat performed so well that I wanted to do an improved version, embodying some refinements and using a new method of molding. Wendy Two rows well, tows well and sails fast. Her V-bottom, besides being stiff and able, provides a form which can take advantage of the simplest possible FRP construction method—the drape mold. She is extremely lightweight (hull less than 100 pounds) and will cost about $250 to build (including sails) in most metropolitan areas. Drape mold makes use of three forming mold sections as the only throwaway parts; these can usually be made from scrap lumber. Balsa wood keel, stringers, stem and plywood transom together with a muslin drape, form the shape of the boat and become part of the hull to help stiffen the structure. The seats are foam plastic blocks covered with FRP and a facing piece of mahogany veneer; their volume of approximately 4 cubic feet provides 250 pounds of positive flotation in addition to 1 cubic foot or so of balsa in the stringers, etc., which makes the boat safe to race where competing skippers sometimes sail their boats into a capsize. I recommend a sailmaker for the sail although I made my own sail for Wendy which drew well and worked fine; if you intend to race, though, consider that a professional sail is as different from a stock sail as a racing motor differs from a stock engine. Wendy Two will have a smart appearance with her mahogany rudder and seat tops, oak tiller bar and cheek pieces, spruce mast and boom—all finished with clear urethane or epoxy plastic, which will maintain its “just varnished” look for years. Construction is very simple, no lofting to fool with because the dimensions for the transom and mold forms are given in the plans.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

Trivia (Pub. No. 5791)


by William F. Crosby

A stemhead sloop.

John T. Hayward, down in Tulsa, Oklahoma, sailor extraordinary, said not long ago, that if it was possible to design a boat suitable for overnight “cruises” yet small and light enough to go on a trailer, it might become an exceedingly popular craft on some of the big man-made lakes in the southwest. Trivia is just such a craft and represents pretty close to the minimum in size and weight for a cruising boat.     It seems that down through Texas and Oklahoma, they have quite a few good sized lakes with particular reference to the new Lake Texoma which is about sixty or more miles from anywhere and without any facilities as yet for keeping a boat. The result is that in order to go cruising on this lake, you keep your boat at home and when you want to go for a cruise you load it on a trailer on a Friday afternoon and off you go for a life on the water. Comes Sunday night and you reload on the trailer, and Monday morning you’re back home with the boat tucked away in a safe anchorage in the backyard. Of course Trivia will have lots of other uses and does not necessarily have to be used on Lake Texoma. For instance, it would make a swell little boat for a couple of youngsters to cruise the Hudson River or Long Island Sound. We would hardly recommend her for a trip to Bermuda, but she has a wide application for more or less protected waters and is easy enough to build so that the average amateur could undertake her construction, and with ordinary care, he would have a nice little cruiser.

7 pages, 5 plate(s)

Schizo--A Fifteen-Foot Waterline Catamaran (Pub. No. 5792)

by Robert B. Harris

LOA 18' 7 ", BEAM 7' 91/2, DRAFT 1' 01/4", SAIL AREA 176 SWUARE FEET, DISPLACEMENT 900 LBS.

The ever increasing popularity of the catamaran type of sailing craft has brought with it an incessant demand for designs which are within the capability of amateur boatbuilders.

While the construction of a catamaran hull is no more complicated than for a more conventional type craft, there is of course the need for building twin hulls which are opposite hand but otherwise identical. Schizo, the name selected for this little boat is a contraction of schizophrenia, or dual personality, and seems well suited to the craft. This design has been carefully prepared and engineered. It should be followed closely and all details and dimensions adhered to exactly; any radical departures from the design will most certainly result in a faulty craft of uncertain performance. The building procedure and description of methods to be used will be helpful and should be followed as closely as conditions will permit.

6 pages, 6 plate(s)

Small Sailing Dory, A (Pub. No. 5805)

by Edson I. Schock

Generations of lobstermen and commercial fishermen have proved the seaworthiness of the dory design. Here it is as a 13’ sailer, and a trim vessel she is!

The dory has always been a popular type of small craft. It has a reputation as a good sea boat, and boatbuilders generally consider it easy to build. These are qualities that appeal to the amateur builder. This is a small dory, 13’ overall, 5’ beam. Two sail plans are shown, one of 78 sq. ft. of the old—style dory rig and one of 104 sq. ft. in a more modern jib-headed rig. For small children, the dory would be safer; for racing, the larger rig better.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

Grand Banks 22, The (Pub. No. 5810)

by Edward S. Brewer

Personality plus, and performance too, you’ll find when you take the helm of this salty ketch

Imagine yourself beating up the bay at the helm of this salty little ketch. With her sweeping sheer line, bold clipper bow and picturesque gaff rig, she is a bit of the past brought up to date with modern materials and construction methods. Grand Banks 22 is one of the simplest types of boat to build and can be successfully tackled by anyone familiar with woodworking. When completed, she is a joy to sail, fast and seaworthy, thanks to her modified dory hull. The prototype has been out in 30-knot winds and has proved herself weatherly, stiff and nonpounding. Her versatile ketch rig is quickly shortened down for storm conditions and balances well under a wide variety of sail combinations. Obviously, a boat of this size is not an ocean voyager, but if you want a boat that is easy to build, one that will take wind and water in her stride and doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to own and maintain, then give Grand Banks 22 your serious thought and honest consideration.

14 pages, 7 plate(s)

Cresent--A 15.5 Ft. Centerboard Sailboat (Pub. No. 5827)

by C. T. Allen

LOA 15.5 FT., BEAM 67 IN., WEIGHT 450 LBS., SAIL AREA 135 SQ. FT.

Crescent is the ideal sailboat for day sailing on a small lake, river, or protected waters of a bay. Of course, day sailing doesn’t mean you can’t go for a moonlight cruise. It merely means that the little ship is not equipped with a cabin, galley and bunks for overnight cruising. Running lights should, of course, be installed for after-dark use. The centerboard design reduces Crescent’s draft, so shallow water is not a problem. Its broad beam of over 51/2 ft. makes it an ideal family boat because there is room for a cockpit large enough to accommodate four adults or two adults and three kids, and side decks big enough to stretch out for sunbathing. It’s fast, maneuverable, balanced enough to be sailed by one person. If you feel like racing, two people are needed aboard. Fore and aft flotation chambers will keep the boat and occupants afloat even if the cockpit is swamped with water. All of the lumber needed to build Crescent can be ordered from your local lumber yards.

23 pages, 10 plate(s)

Zephyr (Pub. No. 5828)

by William D. Jackson.


Speedy 14-ft. International Dinghy Class Sailer

Zephyr is a racing sailboat fulfilling rrequirements for the 14-ft International Dinghy Class. Lightweight, strong, compact hull, maximum waterline length for competition or thrilling sailing speeds of over 15 mph. Will outsail boats twice her length and will keep going in rough waters. Zephyr is a refinement of a type of boat developed by the English for use in the rough open waters of the English Channel. Not only is it fast under sail, but it can stand up under punishment. And it’s light enough to be easily loaded atop an auto or light trailer. Construction is with a convex bottom with developed surfaces; adapted to plywood covering. The pre-fab method of construction used on Zephyr lends itself to mass production.

12 pages, 5 plate(s)

Snowbird--A 12-Foot Catboat (Pub. No. 5840)

by Edson I. Schock

Naval architect Edson I. Schock here brings up to modern standards of construction and rig the famed Olympic Monotype class which his father, Edson B. Schock, designed from the original California Snowbirds. This new Snowbird uses plywood, has a modern rig, will be faster and handier than either of her forerunners as befits a Schock masterpiece.

LOA 12 FT., BEAM 4 FT. 11 IN.

This little cat is a modern version of the well-known Olympic Monotype class. This type of boat was selected by the Olympic Committee as a typical American small boat, and many of the original boats have been built both here and abroad. In redesigning her, I’ve modified the original lines of the boat only enough to make plywood planking possible, and the rig has been made a little more modern in style. The boats built from this design should be lighter than the original boats were, and should sail a little faster. Aside from putting on the bottom planks, the construction should be done easily by the amateur boatbuilder. The bottom planks have no twist in them, but the bend at the bow is fairly sharp, and they will have to be put on carefully. This is not an easy job, but it is well within the ability of any careful woodworker. If you plan to make your own sails, "Sailmaking Simplified" by Gray will tell you all about it in the simplest terms. But most builders, by the time they get the boat completed are willing to let a professional make the sail. This boat will make a fine racing class for any club, and an excellent boat in which to learn to sail.

*Available in reprint in The Shellback's Library from The Press at Toad Hall.

16 pages, 4 plate(s)

Goshawk--A Racing Dinghy or Tender (Pub. No. 5849)

Designed by Charles G. MacGregor

LOA 11 ft. 6 in., Beam 4 ft. 6 in., Draft, c.b., 3 ft. 1 in., Sail Area 72 sq. ft.

This boat is within the dimensions of the class B Dinghies, but is not eligible to race in this class because of the plank thickness and hull weight, and for this reason we doubt if she will perform quite as well on the wind. But for group class racing they will provide excellent sport. For those who are going to build Goshawk the following hints will be helpful. No doubt there are other ways and methods which will be preferred or suggested by your own previous experience. Do not change the design or construction. It is based on considerable experience. If you don't like either, don't build this boat, but have one especially designed to suit your own ideas. It will be noticed on examination of the plans that the bottom is a combination of vee and arc form. In thin plywood of large panel sizes it is possible to obtain a slight compound curve, and when this is done to the bottom plank in this case, it prevents panting between supporting members, and helps to eliminate the wavy or rippling effect which sometimes develops on the planking. The amount of curve is 1/2 inch in 2 feet. Make a mould to this curve and use it on all frames. On all watertight seams and contact surfaces we recommend the use of waterproof glue and screw-fastenings. It is absolutely necessary to make proper contact between the surfaces being bonded, and the fastenings must be spaced close enough along the edges to provide the pressure necessary to squeeze out the air pockets and channels in the glue which become water channels when the boat is launched and the seams are submerged. The transom is raked slightly so that a small outboard engine can be installed easily. The stem is wide at the head tapering down to a point at the forefoot. This has three points in its favor: (a) Provides more width forward around the mast; (b) Easier to plank because the plywood does not have to be twisted so much as it would have to be with a straight stem, and (c) it permits the addition of more flare forward to ensure dryness and buoyancy when pitching into a headsea.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

How to Build Sabot (Pub. No. 5850)

Designed by Charles G. MacGregor

New Sail Plan by W. F. Crosby

LOA 9 ft 11 in., Beam 4 ft., Sail Area 36 sq ft.

The pram dinghy has been very popular in Europe for a great many years and in all probability the type originated in Scandinavia. The pram is rapidly becoming popular in this country. Experienced yachtsmen have been quick to see and appreciate its many good qualities and are willing to overlook its odd appearance. As a yacht tender, it is ideal, because of the unexcelled carrying capacity, short length, and light weight--an important item if the dink has to be carried on deck or on top of the deckhouse; and most important of all, it tows exceptionally well. With the advent of resin-bonded plywood, we are able to overcome weight objections and have gained other worth while advantages. A center-board has been installed in place of the original leeboards, the sliding gunter has been changed to marconi rig and a rudder and tiller instead of the steering oar. The vee bottom is slightly more difficult to build than the flat bottom, but it is superior to the latter especially for sailing and towing; therefore, its adoption is recommended. The hard or sharp chine is simple in construction, but the flat chine is better, improving the looks and making rowing and towing in a heavy sea safer.

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

How to Build a Class E Racing Ice Yacht (Pub. No. 5852)

by T. E. Mead

LOA 18 ft., span 13 ft., MAST HEIGHT 19 ft., SAIL AREA 75 sq. ft., WEIGHT 250 lbs.

The two side planks of this class E ice yacht are of 9/16" x 11y2" x 18' clear airplane spruce. Don't make substitutions on these vital members in order to save a few cents or a few days' delay. The runner plank is also of the highest grade of airplane spruce and, as it is subjected to violent strains, should be of the very finest quality. Select the best two sides of the side planks to be on the outside and then nail them together at the corners with these two good sides together. Mark out the outline of the side planks and frame stations on one side accurately according to the drawings. Use a stiff batten to lay out the curve on the top edges. Be sure that the nails holding the two planks together are in the waste portion and not in the planks themselves. Save the waste portion because you can make some of the deck stringers and miscellaneous small parts out of these pieces. The nose block should be laminated of several pieces rather than cut out of a solid piece because this reduces danger of checking. In all joints of every kind, use "aircraft joint" casein glue. This glue is a white powder and should not be confused with the chocolate colored powder sold in most hardware stores. Its strength and water-resisting properties are far superior to the ordinary household type of casein glue.

19 pages, 3 plate(s)

Flying Dutchman (Pub. No. 5857)

by Rogers Winter

LOA 2 ft., BEAM 4 ft., WEIGHT 170 lbs. approx.

Here’s a flat-bottomed, shallow-draft boat for sailors who want to get on tile water with a fast rig, but feel that other types are beyond their limited finances or ability

During the last half of the nineteenth century and well into the twentieth, in both the United States and Canada, flat-bottomed sailing craft in great variety were used wherever there was shoal water or a necessity for low-cost boats. Despite their simple form, these sailing scows very often showed quite remarkable weatherliness and speed, due to the fundamental elements of great speed in their hull design, and there are numerous recorded instances when scow-type craft showed their sterns to fast commercial sailing vessels and yachts. The use of leeboards was adapted from Dutch craft which, despite their flat bottoms, shallow drafts and wide beams, are famous for their sailing ability. "Flying Dutchman", therefore, has a long and distinguished ancestry. It is a boat for sailors who want to get on the water with a fast rig, but feel that other types are beyond their finances or ability to construct.

For a cruisiner version of this type of design please see Pub No. 5047--How to Build a 22-foot Flying Dutchman.

7 pages, 4 plate(s)

Build a South Bay Scooter (Pub. No. 5861)

by Charles R. Meyer

LOA 13 ft to 16 ft., BEAM 4 ft to 6 ft.

Originally designed by the Coast Guard as an amphibian, these rudderless ice boats are now sleek racing machines for winter sailing thrills.

Faster than the wind and trickier handling than any sailing craft afloat, the South Bay scooter was originally an amphibian. Designed and developed by the United States Coast Guard to hurdle patches of broken ice and to supply units of the Lifesaving Service on Fire Island when those personnel were virtually marooned by floating ice, the scooter was refined and eventually evolved into the sleek racing machine found on Long Island today. Featuring rudderless steering and a flat, shell-type hull, today’s scooter is a highly individualistic vehicle. There are no rigid class restrictions to date—scootermen merely differentiate between big and little boats, depending on the canvas carried overhead. SPORTS AFIELD Boatbuilding’s set of plans, drawn by Jesse and Dave Fishman, may be followed exactly, but are usually used as a general template by experienced boatmen and builders. The scooter's performance is determined by the canvas and the sharpness and placement of the lengthwise runners—the hull is more of a platform used to carry passengers and support the structural components. Designed for competition rather than broken-ice navigation, this hull operates well over the ice, but will not give much performance if dunked in a pothole. She will do 40 to 60 mph over the ice under good wind conditions with the proper handling. Your scooter can be from 13’ to 16’ long, with a beam of 4’ to 6’ conventionally.

6 pages, 4 plate(s)

18-Foot Knockabout, An (Pub. No. 5862)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 18 ft 1 1/2 in., BEAM 6'  21/2 in., DRAFT  10 in., DISPLACEMENT 1450 lbs.

She will make a pretty picture anywhere, with wind in her sails and the sun low on the horizon. Safe, roomy, easy to sail, she is an ideal family boat.

This is a family boat. She will be safe, seaworthy, roomy and easy to sail. She will also be fast, but nut as fast as the racing machines that are advertised as “day sailers” and are really designed with speed alone in mind. Anyone with some experience in boatbuilding should have no difficulty in building her.

20 pages, 4 plate(s)

24-Ft. Auxiliary Sloop, A (Pub. No. 5865)

by Edson I. Schock

Seaworthy in rough water and comfortable enough for a small family, this well-planned craft is easy to build.

20 pages, 7 plate(s)

Per Page      181 - 200 of 205
More books