Sail Boat Plans

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14' Sailing Sharpie and How to Build It, A (Pub. No. 5650)

by D.F. McLachlan

Reprinted from "The Boy's Own Paper"

To those who take an interest in boat-sailing, and who seek their pleasure on the water, there is no type of craft more admirably suited for their purpose than the sailing sharpie.  A boat of this type, with her heavy centre plate lowered, has enormous stability, which allows of her carrying a sail-spread that will drive her to windward like a bulb finner; and at the same time, for running with the wind or river cruising, her shallow draught with plate raised makes her an ideal craft. >From stem to stern the boat now designed for our readers measures 14 ft., with a beam of 6 ft. 6 in., and a depth of 1 ft. 9 in., which will give a draught of 8 in. with the plate up for running, and 3 ft. when the plate is lowered for beating to windward.

20 pages

How to Build the Boy's Own Sailing Skiff (Pub. No. 5651)

(A Classic Thames Sailing Skiff."Boy's Own" was an English magazine.)

by F.H. Hobden

For many reasons, winter seems the best time for amateur boatbuilding; you have the advantage of working more comfortably in cool weather, and then, when the hot summer time comes, you have a chance of thoroughly enjoying it, as your boat is ready for use.  In designing a boat there are many things to bear in mind. I intend giving you here the lines of a skiff which can safely carry four persons, and can also be easily rowed by one, and is moreover capable of carrying a small sail to take you over the tide when the wind is fair (that is, on the quarter or dead aft). She is not intended for a sailing-boat, viz. one capable of sailing on a wind; as those who have had any experience in sailing know well, a shallow-draught boat with but little keel is not suitable for sailing with a head wind, but will blow away to leeward like a paper bag.  Up the river, however, with a fair breeze, if you can stick up a small sail, it will often save you a long row, and that is a consideration in the hot weather

24 pages

12' Centreboard Dinghy and How to Build It, A (Pub. No. 5652)

by D.F. McLachlan

Reprinted from "The Boy's Own Paper."

Centreboard sailing dinghies have of late years become very popular, and it is hardly possible on a summer day to visit any of our coast towns without seeing a few of these handy, able little boats. The designing and building of these little clippers have now reached a state of perfection, and their popularity is easily seen by the number of races which are held, for it is surprising the speed that can be got from a boat twelve feet in length.  This boat is a typical Clyde dinghy, and rigged with a standing lug—the best sail, in the writer’s opinion, for all-round work.

28 pages

How to Build Su-Lu--A 10' Sailing Dinghy (Pub. No. 5662)

This light and sturdy little dinghy is actually a 10-ft. model of a Navy PT hull, that is, with adaptations to the materials used and to the limitations of a home workshop. “Su-Lu” can accommodate four adults and is light enough for one person to put on top of a car. The “skin” is merely two layers of 1/8-in. plywood with muslin between, laid over a frame of spruce battens. The result is a rigid, strong but very light shell. The transom is built to take an outboard motor, and a mast step and centerboard trunk are provided for sailing purposes. Oarlocks and sockets also may be provided, though not shown on this model.

19 pages, 7 plate(s)

How to Build Solution--A 16' Sailing Scow (Pub. No. 5663)

Designed especially for those who want a practical, unpretentious sailboat which is easily and quickly built at low cost, Solution is simply a scow with hull refinements that enable it to carry a 21½-ft. stepped mast and about 140 sq. ft. of sail. The plywood bottom curves in a long, unbroken sweep from the stem block to the transom, while the sides curve out to the beam width back of midships and then fair in to the transom in a smooth, fiat curve. Because of these construction refinements, the hull rides easily and planes smoothly when you pick up a good breeze on the long reach of the tack. The unbroken curve at the gunwale adds to its trim, seaworthy appearance.

8 pages, 4 plate(s)

Sailski--A 27' Racing Catamaran (Pub. No. 5666)

by L. Francis Herreshoff

This 27 ft. long racing catamaran was designed for those who seek high speed on the water under sail.

"Several readers of THE RUDDER have asked for the design of a sailing machine, and most of them have requested that it be cheap to construct. Now it is good fun to design a sailing machine, but to plan one which is simple and cheap to construct is really a most difficult matter. If this were not so there would have been many in the past, but so far none has been produced which was really fast, simple and cheap. In fact, the successful catamaran of the past has cost as much or more than the usual sailboat of the same sail area although they were often of one-quarter or less the weight of the sailboat. Much of the expense of the catamaran heretofore has gone into building a structure that would support a central sail plan between the two hulls. This has always proved complicated and expensive, so that in the design of the Sailski a radically different scheme or arrangement has been adopted.  The principal feature is that the sail plan is supported in all directions by a tripod which has the base of its legs near neutral axes, so when the hulls pitch, the rig and framework will not be strained. Therefore it is believed that the design of the "Sailski" is a very simple solution of a complex problem."--L. Francis Herreshoff

24 pages, 7 plate(s)

Build the Famous Seabird (Pub. No. 5667)

. . . .a comfortable, seaworthy cruiser of moderate draft. The original sailed from New York to Rome.

Reprinted from Rudder

"Sea Bird", herself, needs little introduction to the yachtsmen of the world as her record is well-known and her name will echo down the corridors of time for many years to come. We will therefore dispense with any unnecessary palaver and get down to business. In the first place, "Sea Bird" is designed primarily for the professional builder but, as already stated, a great many duplicates have been built with considerable success by amateurs. If you are handy with tools and know a little something about boat building, you ought to be able to complete her, but if you have had little or no experience on the subject, consider something simpler to start off with; a dinghy for instance. If you want to take this on, do take a look at How to Build a Cruising Yawl, our publication  4912 which has Seabird plus three of its variations.

28 pages, 6 plate(s)

Trade Winds--A 26' Sloop (Pub. No. 5668)

by S.S. Crocker

This twenty-six-foot sloop has really proven herself as an able and attractive small cruiser.

Reprinted from Rudder

The "Trade Winds" was designed to provide an able small cruising boat with good accommodations for two people and decent cockpit space for a larger party sailing daytimes. The clipper bow model was chosen not only because it is a good seagoing type, but because of late this attractive feature has been again coming into popularity and many small boat sailors have been asking for it.  One of this model has been built, and having undergone many trials has proved herself all the designer expected. She is stiff, will carry her sail well and will plug along under power efficiently. The Trade Winds is not to be undertaken by the rank amateur, but anyone who really likes her can always take the plans to a boat builder for a quotation. She should be easy to construct and the specifications give all the necessary information.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

Windmill--A 151/2 Ft. One-Design (Pub. No. 5694)

by W.P. McMillen

One of the hottest of the one-design sailing classes to come off a drawing board in recent years is the Windmill Sloop. Classy, strong, ultra-lightweight, low in cost, simple to build, and extremely fast, these are only a few accurate descriptions of the boat. With a sail area of only 119 sq. ft., 56-inch beam, and a LOA of 15½ feet, she’ll outsail any single-hulled craft of similar size and sail area—and stay drier than most while doing it!  Designed especially for the home-builder by Clark W. Mills of Clearwater, Fla., the Windmill was first introduced in 1953. The boat proved suitable for both the teen-age set and the mature sailor as well. Now the class has spread over 27 states, and is also represented in Cuba and Guatemala, C. A.  Over half of the Windmills in existence have been home-built, many by youngsters with only a rudimentary knowledge of shop. Much of the Windmill’s hardware can be made at home with tin-snips and an electric drill.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

How to build a Motor Ice Boat (Pub. No. 5697)

by Charles H. Guthrie

Terrific speed and the exhilaration of the out-of-doors in winter are fascinating elements of ice boating in its various forms, and particularly is this true of the sport when a strongly built motor ice boat is used. On very smooth, long stretches of ice, the speed is limited only by the power of the mechansim and the endurance of the driver. The possessor of such a mechanical craft will find much more satisfaction in it if he is both owner and builder. The boat described in this article and shownin use and constructional detail in the illustration carries two passengers and the driver.

9 pages, 1 plate(s)

Sunray Jr.--Nat'l Triangle Class racing Knockabout (Pub. No. 5707)

by S. S. Rabl

A summer of one of the world’s most thrilling sports—sailboat racing— awaits him who builds this boat.

Triangle class rules are a result of careful study of other racing classes, and under them the man who builds his own boat at home has the same chances as those who can afford to have their craft professionally constructed, because cash outlay on the boat is predetermined in every important respect. Only three boats are needed to get a fleet charter from the N. T. C. R. A. and compete in the national regattas, so here’s an opportunity to organize a fleet in your locality, built at low cost. The past few years have seen a record-breaking revival of the small sailboat. Snipes, Comets and Moths have increased by leaps and bounds. Sunray Jr. is a compact and modernized version of the Sunray, and is eligible to race in the National Triangle class, one of the fairest and most democratic of the small boat racing classes. Like the construction of Sunray, that of the Junior is the acme of simplicity.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

International Star Class--A Brief History, The (Pub. No. 5709)

by G. W. Elder and Ernest Ratsey

In 1907, William Gardner designed the smallest keel sloop of its day. Known as the Bug Class, it was a Star in miniature. It was just one of the many semi-popular useless little classes of that time, too small for a full-grown man to really sail in. The lines of the Bug were not copied from any other existing class, but, in so far as such a thing is possible, were originated by Mr. Gardner and a Mr. Maybrey. At the suggestion of G. A. Corry, Gardner & Company enlarged their own design about five feet in length (the actual drawings being made by Francis Sweisguth) and thus the Star was produced. Isaac Smith of Port Washington built twenty-two of these boats and they were raced on Long Island Sound for the first time in 1911. Later the same year, eleven more were built by Green Brothers of Chelsea, Mass. These were, however, known as Nahant Bugs and were not recognized to be true Stars until the International Association was formed some ten years later. A third, and larger, class from the same design was attempted about 1913 and called the Fish Class. Four of these boats were built and proved a failure. While the larger and smaller variations of this design did not meet with success, the Star struck a happy medium and was destined to become the largest of all one-design classes and to revolutionize yacht racing in many respects. George A. Corry, “Father of the Stars,” was responsible for starting the Class. He conceived the idea of providing an inexpensive boat, that was a real little racing machine, for men of ability but moderate means. This was in the days of the large yacht, when racing was a rich man’s game and something of a society function as well. Small boats were considered playthings for boys, but it is well to note that from the beginning the Star was never intended as a training school for novices. It was dedicated to experienced skippers who could not afford large yachts. The recognition of ability, regardless of finincial or social status, was George Corry’s contribution to yachting.

19 pages

Bilgeboard Scows (Pub. No. 5714)

by Edwin M. and T.M. Chance

In the early 90’s a type of shoal-draught boat was introduced in England that came to be known as the Half-Rater. These boats were from I2 to 15 feet waterline length, with extreme overhangs forward and aft. The English boats were generally rigged with either a modified lug, or a sliding gunter, mainsail' with a jib carried either to the stem head or on a short bowsprit. In the United States the boats were developed both as true fin keel types, carrying a bulb of lead on a plate fin, and as centreborders. The owners and designers of English boats were inrested in the American boats and for that reason races between the two countries were suggested. The first contests were staged by the Seawanhaka-Corinthian Yacht Club for the Seawanhaka International Challenge Cup and were sailed between half-raters of this type, the foreign challenger being the Spruce IV and the American defender Ethelwyn, the challenger losing the series. The racing of these small boats led a number of the men interested in the class to develop hulls of greater displacement and carrying more sail, permitting the use of larger crews. From this foundation arose the unrestricted classes of the Massachusetts Bay Yacht Racing Association.

24 pages

Ice Boating (Pub. No. 5718)

by Edwin J. Schoettle

The past of ice boating, like much of history, is very obscure. It is generally believed that the Dutch were the first to indulge in the sport and that it came down to them through a long line of ice-loving forefathers. For when one thinks of Holland in winter, does not one always picture the Holland of Hans Brinker—with the ice-covered canals, and the joyous children skating to school or their more dignified elders going to work in like fashion? It is indeed not hard to visualize the same people sailing their crudely made ice boats in ancient times over their well-frozen inland waterways. It is more difficult to imagine the pigtailed chinamen sailing over the ice, but it is almost certain they used ice boats in the days of long ago. In Russia, Norway, and Sweden it is also a favorite winter pastime. The Rudder, February, 1910, published an article on Ice Yachting in Sweden, from which we take this: “Ice Yachting has taken a strong hold in Europe, particularly in Sweden—-the Stockholm Ice Yacht Club, for instance, having a fleet of over thirty-six boats, divided into classes as follows: First Class: For yachts of more than 250 feet of sail—six boats. Second Class: For yachts With 200 to 250 feet of sail—eleven boats. Third Class: For yachts 150 to 200 feet of sail—six boats. Fourth Class: For yachts of 150 feet of sail and under—thirteen boats, four of which used lateen sails.

13 pages

Mardi Gras--A midget Class Ocean Racer (Pub. No. 5720)

by Charles Bell

L.O.A. 26’, Displacement, 5,695 pounds, L.W.L. 19’2” A. H.17 degrees, Beam 7’9” PC .53 Draft 36” S. A. 266 sq. ft. Headroom in main cabin 5’4”—sleeps four to six

Mardi Gras is a midget ocean racer of shallow draft, with or without a centerboard, as the builder prefers. She will rate well, I think, considering the daffiness of the racing rules, but most of all she is the most comfortable, stable and sane arrangement I can make for a midget boat which crams aboard as many people as possible. However, she becomes a very roomy cruising yacht for a family of two to four and will give maximum fun with minimum work in upkeep. The cheapest boat to build is one which will cost the most to keep going. Therefore, I have specified what I consider to be the cheapest materials to use—the best. Salt water, erosion, corrosion, sun, rain, worms and fungi need to be met head on with the best materials available if one is to keep the maintenance bill down. And the investment in a boat does not go down the drain if she is built of fine materials so that she retains a good resale value. So, the finest job you can do in building her will make her a fine yacht worthy of anyone’s approval and attention. Mardi Gras will sail well without the centerboard, even though without it she gives up a fraction of her windward ability. But centerboard arrangements below the waterline which must be kept watertight are at best an added maintenance job if you want dry bilges. The one I have designed is as good as any such arrangement, but there are dozens which might work as well—you can take your pick. My personal thought is that most centerboard-keel yachts use the centerboard as a way of beating the zany racing rules and it does not really add much to the usefulness or pleasure of a yacht.

13 pages, 4 plate(s)

B-29--Racing-Cruiser Sloop (Pub. No. 5721)

by Charles Bell

Length    29’, LWL    20’, Beam    8’ 6”, Draft 4’ 4”, Sail area    382 sq. ft., Headroom    6’ 3”, Displacement    7,000 lbs., Sleeps four to six

By any standards, this sleek 29-footer must be considered a fine yacht.

Fiberglass hull, teak decks, spruce mast, stainless steel rigging, fittings and bronze hardware, yet she is easy to build and her probable cost will be about $4,200 for all materials including the motor. Some builders will shade this through wise buying and by forgoing some the finer interior equipment, winches and Dacron sails, but most owners will see the value of this beauty of a boat and will finish her in the finest way possible in order to make a good investment gilt-edged. It is interesting to note that the cost of the FRP hull, teak deck, mast and rigging will total less than half of the cost of the completed boat, so fittings and equipment are not the small items most people think they are and one of the reasons Why a fiberglass hull cannot save a giant proportion of the total cost in anything except a very small boat. B-29 enjoys another unique feature which, to my knowledge, has never been designed into a ballasted sailboat before, which is that she has positive floataion even when filled with water. The reason is that she has 7,280 lbs. of rigid urethane foam flotation built into the boat hull, deck and cabin and poured into all odd and unusable spaces. This is 280 lbs. more flotation than the total weight of the boat.

11 pages, 4 plate(s)

11-Ft. Catboat (Pub. No. 5730)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 11', BEAM 4' 6" SAIL AREA 85 SQ. FT.

Every youngster deserves the chance to skipper his own vessel. This one is perfect for a junior sailing program—but you’ll find it hard to keep your hand off the tiller of this easy sailing catboat.

This boat was designed as a beginning sailboat for the younger sailors, or for a simple, easy-tobuild cat for those who want something to knock about in. The hull is a type the author has used in many designs, and has found very satisfactory. These boats are reasonably fast, unusually stable, and handle and balance beautifully. Compared with most boats of their size, they are very hard to upset. The construction has been kept simple but no essential parts have been left out. The sides and bottom are portions of cylinders, and so may be planked with plywood or sheet metal without twisting the material. This makes for easy planking. The side and bottom frames are tied together with proper gussets and there are floor timbers on all frames. Small boats not having these floors and gussets are weak where they should be strong, and have been observed to go to pieces when washed ashore in hurricanes or other bad storms. The boats properly put together stood up to the beating. A cheaper and lighter boat can be built by leaving out some of the structural members but she will not last as long or be as watertight as a well-constructed boat. Using rollers, two people can put one of these boats on a trailer. With a small winch mounted on the front of the trailer, as many are now built, one man can do it alone. This boat would be suitable for a one-design class at a yacht club for its junior sailing program

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

Seventeen-Foot Knockabout (Pub. No. 5738)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 17', 6' 2", SAIL AREA 158 SQ. FT.

Race it, teach the kids to sail, or just knock about in it. Construction is easy—you can make up the pieces in your basement and put them together in your back yard. You’ll have a lot of fun building it, too

This is a family sailboat. She is roomy but not tubby, safe to let the youngsters sail, but not slow. In fact, she will give a good account of herself in racing if well sailed. The shape of the hull is worked out to make her easy to build, using either plywood or conventional planking. She can be carried about on a trailer.

22 pages, 3 plate(s)

Wendy--A Fiberglass Sailing Dinghy (Pub. No. 5748)

by Charles Bell

LOA 10', BEAM 41 3/4", SAIL AREA 55 SQ. FT.

Emerging as a new boatbuilding material with exciting possibilities for the amateur are the various resin plastics better known as fiber glass. Here’s how to build with them.

New building Methods made possible by fiber glass make Wendy a very cosy boat to build. She is built in a Masonite female mold which gives her a smooth outside finish with no necessity for grinding or sanding the cured fiber glass. Construction is the finest throughout—fiber-glass-reinforced plastic hull (with molded-in color), mast, boom, centerboard and rudder. She has oak gunwales, mahogany knees and seats and bronze hardware. An attractive feature is the mast which comes apart; both mast and boom can be stowed inside the boat. Wendy will row, tow and sail and because of her light weight can be stowed on the deck of many yachts without much effort. (She weighs about 150 pounds.) Her rugged construction can take the abuse which sometimes befalls a yacht dinghy. It took me two days to build the mold and two days to mold the hull. I built the mast, rudder, boom and centerboard in one day and the finishing, such as sanding the woodwork, mounting the hardware, seats and knees, consumed almost another day, making a total of six days from the time I started to build the mold until the boat was ready to sail. This little boat was no problem at all for two of us to put on top of the car and we carried her down the boat dock over our heads like a canoe. She sails extremely well and is very fast and maneuverable. Her sail area is plenty for her weight and the fiber-glass mast needs no rigging but uses a hold-down fastener to keep it from coming out.

22 pages, 3 plate(s)

Picaroon III (Pub. No. 5752)

by Sam Rabl


Thirsting for the high seas? Then come aboard this smar,t trim little 23’ cruising auxikary She’s the third in her line of fast-sailing, far-called boats

Picaroon, now there’s a name to conjure with. The first of a line to bear this name was one of my early boats. Built in 1926, she lived for over 20 years and gained both admiration and damnation through all of them. She reappeared in the second edition of my boatbuilding book, and over a hundred letters attested to the fact that she was still popular. Many people wrote me that they had built hen. Many of these inquired when I was going to redesign her a bit bigger. Well, here she is. She is the same sea-kindly hull enlarged to a more livable size. She has the same saucy look of the Pic and the same ease of construction as the original in which Les Hemingway sailed from Mobile to Fort Myers to Havana and Neuvitas in the epic voyage of his young life. There is a Picaroon II, and to keep her ancestry in line we will call her Picaroon III. She may be built with ordinary planking, as was the original, or she may be constructed with plywood and fiber-glassed

12 pages, 7 plate(s)

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