Racers

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Racing Catboat (Pub. No. 5010)

Her length is 11 feet 111/4 inches, and the extreme beam is 4 feet 11 inches. She is fast under sail, quick in response to the tiller, and can be used with an outboard motor

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

$7.95
Shark--A 15 ft Racing Sloop (Pub. No. 5030)

by Fred W. Schnur

"Shark," though only fifteen feet long, is every inch a yacht. She was designed for sailing in very rough water with quite a bit of breeze, yet the craft will perform well in light airs. Several of the most modern features of the yachting world are incorporated into the design. The rig is high and narrow, with light hollow mast and a rigid tee boom. The permanent backstay adds the nth degree of stiffness to the rigging. With the full length battens in the sail as advocated by leading racing men, maximum efficiency and speed are to be had, along with comfort and safety.

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

$7.95
Missile--A 19 ft Racing Sailboat (Pub. No. 5103)

by C.T. Allen

Small craft designed for the backyard boatbuilder who wants competition or just plain speedy sailing at minimum cost.

"Missile" is designed to be the first boat around the finishing buoy, regardless of the competition or varying wind conditions. To do this consistently, the underwater hull design has been chosen to give maximum speed and maneuverability. And, because top speed and close maneuvering each depend on your boat’s ability to hang on the wind and be stable at any angle of heel, a fin keel was used.  The fin keel is bolted to its hanger and can be removed or installed in minutes when launching "Missile" or loading it on a trailer.  Further and somewhat surprising dividends of this design are the ease with which the boat can be built and the low cost of materials due to the absence of centerboard, centerboard trunk, steamed planking, and complicated stem and transom assemblies.  The original model used Crezon plastic-overlaid plywood for planking and deck, eliminating costly priming, or use of special paints or coatings to get the fine finish so necessary to successful sailboat racing. For economy, however, 3-ply, fir exterior plywood available at your local lumberyard may be used. Also, if the cost of 20-ft. plywood panels is more than you wish to pay, stock 8-ft. lengths may be used along with butt-joint battens.

24 pages, 5 plate(s)

$9.95
How to Build Frisky--A 17-Ft. Racing Sloop (Pub. No. 5314)

by J. Julius Fanta

A 17-foot jib-headed racer that meets the popular demand for a racing craft combined with a knockabout for 1eisure1y afternoon sailing.

Frisky is specially designed to fill a double bill embodying a fast hull, 'with sweeping lines and novel features. She has a shallow forefoot, a factor that makes her fast, particularly in running before the wind. With the crew's weight shifted aft to lift the bow, the effect is virtually planing. The graceful sheer adds to the freeboard forward to make for dry sailing. Ample beam, six foot plus, makes this craft stiff in strongish winds. Frisky is a good sail carrier in heavy going with her tall rig.

13 pages, 4 plate(s)

$8.95
Thunderbird--A Racing-Cruising Sloop (Pub. No. 5325)

by Ben Seaborn, N. A.

This 26-ft. racing-Cruising sloop is a fine example of good design and proper application of materials.

If you've never before built a boat, this plan may at first seem discouragingly complex. It really isn't. Naturally a boat plan can't be as simple as a plan for, say, a bookcase. On a boat there are few straight lines. Parts curve up, down and sideways. And because many of these parts are rough-shaped, somewhat oversize and  trimmed to fit as they're assembled, boat drawings are hard to dimension precisely.  

20 pages, 9 plate(s)

$9.95
Flying Ant--A 10-Ft. 6-In. Racing Dinghy (Pub. No. 5362)

by Chris Howe

Designed by John Spencer, this l0ft 6 in. racing dinghy sails as well as it looks.

Designed by John Spencer, of Cherub fame, the Flying Ant is an excellent, high performance, junior trainer, Originating in New Zealand, the design took on in Western Australia, but rigid restrictions and a high minimum weight led Sydney enthusiasts to tinker with the specifications. As now sailed with Middle Harbor 16 ft Skiff Club, the Sydney Flying Squadron and Georges River SC, the boats deviate from the specifications, especially in the sail area of spinnakers. Northbridge Sailing Club, concerned to foster a more restricted class, drew up a set of restrictions and called the class “Lightweight Flying Ant”. The net result of this is the original Flying Ant hull shape and working sail plan, optional cockpit arrangements and rigging a minimum weight of 80 lb, and a restricted spinnaker areas.

15 pages, 3 plate(s)

$8.95
Fireball (Pub. No. 5364)

by Peter Milne

Here are the full building instructions of probably the easiest-to-construct, really fast, racing machine yet produced.

The Fireball was second in Yachting's “One-Of-A-Kind” Regatta beating the 505 boat for-boat. It is destined for International recognition. Before any small boat enthusiast undertakes the building of his own boat he must be confident in some small measure, of his ability to handle a plane and panel saw—if he shies at the thought of putting up a kitchen shelf, then boatbuilding is just not for him. Fireball, however, does not call for much in the way of boatbuilding skill and all the steps in her construction have been reduced to simple carpentry. Right from the beginning the following code has been kept firmly in mind: (a) Cut to a minimum all jobs requiring two pairs of hands; (b) All joints to be as simple as possible; (c) The fairing up and fitting of the skin to be straightforward.

20 pages, 1 plate(s)

$8.95
Midget--A Boat for the Midget Ocean Racing Club (Pub. No. 5375)

by Edward R. Weber

Midget is designed to be one of the smaller boats under the MORC rule, with an overall length of only 20 feet. Thus her proportions affecting costs are such that many will be able to build or buy her who could not aspire to a 24-footer. Her hull lines and profile under water follow proved form, with a trend toward the old and proved rather than the new and rare. The profile underbody is long and full, with a real grip on the water, able to hold a course without yawing or broaching, easy on the helm and most seakindly. With a view to keeping costs down initially as well as later in upkeep, there is a trend toward lightness in her lines, which will also permit speed provided the boat is not burdened with too much weight from equipment and gear. This lightness gives long sailing buttocks and a clean run, little wake and a boat on which one can leave the helm for short periods to tend to other duties. Short fin keelers and centerboarders can claim speed and maneuverability but in a sense must be likened to a tricycle that can be spun in its own length, yet a one-wheeled unicycle that needs constant attention to keep her on course and driving ahead. Thus this “old-fashioned” profile suits the seas, it meets the cruising needs and will be a real racing companion and as valuable as an extra crew member. Space below on Midget is secured through the use of high freeboard and a straight sheer. These give her a modern look above water, following recent trends. At the same time, they have the necessary amount of boat below them to give proper balance. When one has a skimming dish type of hull, with modern high freeboard, then one has little control, but Midget has a blending of the modern in space and looks, and the old in ability and performance. There is 4-foot 5-inch headroom below—more than most 24-foot sloops of normal proportions. And if one looks her over, from plan to plan, he will note that she has a pertness and pleasing appearance despite the sacrifices made for the sake of interior space, comfortable sleeping and galley accommodations. One great advantage Midget has, as drawn, is the ability to sleep a third hand. Very often it is necessary to cruise a small boat such as this with three aboard, possibly to sleep three before a race or just after a particularly tiring race. It will be seen that by clearing off the galley and toilet tops one additional person can sleep athwartships in a sleeping bag or on an air mattress. Crowded? Yes, but necessary at time, and it is mighty seldom one cruises on a 20-footer that can sleep all three of her racing crew! For hatches there are the hinged forward hatch, a sliding companionway and two access hatches in the aft deck for the stowage space there. The forward hatch is a valuable safety factor and useful for stowing headsails or handling ground tackle. The arrangement plan shown provides for a completely watertight, self-draining cockpit, without even openings in the seats. Stowage under the seats is reached from the aft hatches or from the interior.

15 pages, 9 plate(s)

$8.95
10-Foot Mark Boat, A (Pub. No. 5440)

A craft specially designed as a Mark Boat, also useful for many purposes.

Raced are run on a course which has previously been laid out by the regatta or race committee and which is provided with certain marks to show the direction of the course. Often well known objects such as Government buoys, lights, etc., are used but it more often happens that such objects are not available or that they are not conveniently spaced. It then becomes necessary for the race committee to place other objects on the course--they are generally placed only at the spots where the course changes direction. These objects, or marks, as they are properly called, have been a source of trouble to race committees and contestants and have spoiled many a race, through being improperly designed for their purpose. There are several reasons for this, the chief one being that the average race committee has had no experience in the design and construction of marks. A good many seem to think that almost any old thing that can float and cary a flag will do. They may be a little shy of money and some one will suggest a cheap and easily constructed mark, it is is used, generally with unsatisfactory results. The inexpensive and simple type of mark is a delusion. Such a mark lasts about a season, whereas a real good mark may cost more but will last twenty years with proper care and be far cheaper and infinitely more satisfactory in the end.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

$7.95
Splinter a 20 ft Sailing Toothpick (Pub. No. 5598)

We have often seen the advent of sailing boats of long, narrow proportions which are wonderfully fast and furnish very exciting sport. While most of the “toothpick” designs have been fitted with fixed and weighted fins, the design which we present here utilizes a principle employed by some of the old-time French racing canoes.

4 pages, 4 plate(s)

$6.95
Mardi Gras--A midget Class Ocean Racer (Pub. No. 5720)

by Charles Bell

L.O.A. 26’, Displacement, 5,695 pounds, L.W.L. 19’2” A. H.17 degrees, Beam 7’9” PC .53 Draft 36” S. A. 266 sq. ft. Headroom in main cabin 5’4”—sleeps four to six

Mardi Gras is a midget ocean racer of shallow draft, with or without a centerboard, as the builder prefers. She will rate well, I think, considering the daffiness of the racing rules, but most of all she is the most comfortable, stable and sane arrangement I can make for a midget boat which crams aboard as many people as possible. However, she becomes a very roomy cruising yacht for a family of two to four and will give maximum fun with minimum work in upkeep. The cheapest boat to build is one which will cost the most to keep going. Therefore, I have specified what I consider to be the cheapest materials to use—the best. Salt water, erosion, corrosion, sun, rain, worms and fungi need to be met head on with the best materials available if one is to keep the maintenance bill down. And the investment in a boat does not go down the drain if she is built of fine materials so that she retains a good resale value. So, the finest job you can do in building her will make her a fine yacht worthy of anyone’s approval and attention. Mardi Gras will sail well without the centerboard, even though without it she gives up a fraction of her windward ability. But centerboard arrangements below the waterline which must be kept watertight are at best an added maintenance job if you want dry bilges. The one I have designed is as good as any such arrangement, but there are dozens which might work as well—you can take your pick. My personal thought is that most centerboard-keel yachts use the centerboard as a way of beating the zany racing rules and it does not really add much to the usefulness or pleasure of a yacht.

13 pages, 4 plate(s)

$8.95
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