Data Sheets

Our Data and Plan Sheet series is made up of informative reference articles from the literature. For a modest price, Data Sheets contain information selected from our classic books or the periodical literature reprinted to provide specific information on a particular subject. Plan Sheets are for boat building projects and contain building plans. These items measure  8.5" x 11" and contain between 1 and 4 pages. Most of the Data Sheets and Plan sheets are illustrated.

Sort By:  
Bubbles (Pub. No. 7001)

by Charles Bell

LOA 8',  DEPTH 20". BEAM 4', WEIGHT 100 lbs.

Here is a dinghy which should meet the requirements of most yachtsmen who want a light but stable dinghy.

Capable of carrying three adults while being rowed, but one which can be sailed for fun in quiet harbors as well. She weighs 100 lbs., is only eight feet long, 20” deep and four feet wide and she is about as simple as a boat can be to build. BUBBLES can be built using either of two methods. The first is the much talked-about Bubble Mold, a mold method which uses a bubble of air and is explained in the article.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Wendy Third (Pub. No. 7002)

by Charles Bell

LOA 10', BEAM 51", DRAFT Approx. 6"

Wendy Third is a further development of her predecessors, Wendy and Wendy Two.

These two class racers were such successful performers that further development of building methods was considered to bring construction of this popular class within the scope of any home builder with ordinary skills as well as for the more expert among us. The lines are the same as before with certain refinements to ease lamination of the sheer and chine pieces.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Fisherman (Pub. No. 7003)

by Charles Bell

LOA 12', BEAM 5'

Fisherman was designed with one purpose in mind—fishing.

Although she has a planing type bottom, she is not intended for high-horsepower motors—10 to 15 will do nicely and some of you, undoubtedly, will use a 20. Only 12 feet in length but of good beam, she will be easy to get in and out of the water and will be comfortable to work a line in, in most sheltered lakes and rivers—no rapids, please; leave those to the professional stunt men and the boats designed for them.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Mohawk (Pub. No. 7004)

by Charles Bell

16’ long, weighs 65 lbs. and has 240 lbs. of built-in flotation
.

Mohawk is designed especially for light weight and as such must be handled with judgment. You can’t toss a 75-lb. pack into the bottom from the dock, nor can you jump aboard with abandon yourself. She is plenty tough, however, properly handled and will be a joy to carry on those portages. For ordinary use, where no portages are involved, a light slat bottom can be used in the bottom. This consists of about 6 long spruce slats, ¼” x 1½” x full length, held together by a few crossties. This will help protect the bottom and will add another 10 lbs. of weight.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Kodiak Kayak (Pub. No. 7007)

by Hi Sibley

LOA 15' 8", BEAM 24"

You don’t have to be an Eskimo to build and enjoy this buoyant little craft. And it’s bound to please a water-minded youngster.

If you don’t happen to have any walrus ribs or deer hide handy, you can make a very good facsimile of an Alaskan kayak with plywood, pine and canvas. Here is a model that’s seaworthy as well as light. The cockpit is just aft of amidships to give more buoyancy forward to ride the surf better

4 page(s)

£2.72
Power Punt (Pub. No. 7008)

by Hi Sibley

LOA 10',BEAM 3'

Simplicity of design makes this craft the delight of the novice builder. It’s 16 feet of pure joy for the kiddies

Here is 16 feet of fun for all, and the simple design avoids those problems that beset the builder of a conventional boat. It can be powered by a lawn mower or scooter engine, or any of the small air-cooled jobs from ¾ hp to 2 hp, or more. Obviously it’s no speedboat, but glides over the water at from 4 mph to 10 mph, depending on the size of the motor. And it will carry about as many as you can pile on--kids that is!

3 page(s)

£2.72
Sailing Dinghy of Plyfoam (Pub. No. 7010)

by Charles Bell

With brand new lightweight plyfoam, the home builder’s task and tools are minimized.

Would-be home builders with more spirit than skill for that sailing dink, take heart. And take a hard look at a new core material called Plyfoam, a rigid polyvinyl chloride developed by the firm of Potter Instruments Inc., Plainview, N.Y. for use in “sandwich” construction. Marketed in sheets of 1/4” and 1/2” thickness, it’s intended for use with polyester or epoxy plastics, and with a variety of reinforcing materials of which the most commonly used is fiberglass. With this in mind, I’ve designed a sailing dinghy which will weigh about 50 pounds, but which is stronger than a comparable plywood dink. Even, a conventional fiberglass hull would have to be far heavier to be as stiff and sturdy. It will carry heavy loads in a breeze and be quite lively for one or two people to sail. Outside of the form or building jig, the Plyfoam, fiberglass and resin require a minimum of tools—a brush, razor blades and pair of scissors will do the trick.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Fiberglass Top for the Open Outboard, A (Pub. No. 7011)

With modern plastic materials—Styrofoam, fiberglass and epoxy—you can make your own lightweight top and, by enclosing the sides with polyethylene or plexiglass and the cockpit with vinyl- or neoprene-impregnated nylon, convert your boat for overnight use.

After a season’s cruising with the family aboard, the average skipper has, no doubt, thought of several improvements he’ll want to make in the boat during the winter layover. One good addition for cruising comfort would be to build a cabin top. A top will convert an open boat into an overnight cruiser, provide shelter during a rainstorm and shade passengers from the hot sun during the summer. The cabin top shown here can be built as a single piece or can have the cockpit extension cover; either way it will add immeasurably to the usefulness of an open runabout and its ultimate trade-in value when you decide to go for a larger boat. The drawings do not give dimensions because your particular boat will determine how large the top must be; each skipper will have to make it fit his own boat. General construction and only those dimensions which are standard for certain items are provided.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Fiberglass Flying Bridge Shelter Top (Pub. No. 7012)

Several new developments in plastics and fabric materials are now available to yachtsmen interested in improving or maintaining conventionally constructed boats.

These products include new polysulfide rubber seam compound and adhesives, new urethane, epoxy, vinyl and polysulfide synthetic rubber coatings and foamed urethane plastic boards; all available in the boating market place. Among the many inquiries I receive are always these two questions: “Are these plastics hard to use?” “Can I do the job?” And my answer is this: If you can handle the paint job on a boat, if you can cover the cabin top with canvas, if you can build a hatch cover, then you can handle plastics. The approach may be a little different but the materials handle in much the same way as those you’ve been using. Liquid plastics are like varnish. They look like varnish, they feel like varnish in the brush and they will run like varnish when applied so that you must handle them in the same way. The difference is that they will not cure (or “dry”) unless you add something to the plastic when you are ready to apply it. You sometimes have to add a little thinner to paint in order to use it, so what is really difficult about adding a little catalyst to cure the plastic? The only refinements are: 1. The correct amount of catalyst to add. 2. Plastic will dry in the pot in about 45 minutes, unlike paint which will dry on the surface of the job in a few hours but will only skin over in the pot. With plastic, you have to use the batch into which you have stirred the catalyst within the dry time and you have to wash out the brush in order to save it from becoming a plastic solid reinforced with brush hairs.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Building Fiberglass Ruders and Spinnaker Poles (Pub. No. 7013)

The use of fiberglass in boat construction is not limited to hulls and superstructures. Interesting new practical applications are being discovered every day.

The problems of wood construction of yacht rudders have always been well known, but fiberglass-reinforced plastic at last offers the solution.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Build a Fiberglass Sink for Your Boat (Pub. No. 7014)

The difference between a boat and a yacht is often in her appointments. Why not build a one-piece fiberglass countertop and sink as the show piece of the galley for your boat?

Plan the counter-top and sink combination to fit the space you have in your boat, but remember that the stove can be a pull-out drawer affair, under the counter, which will save room on the Counter-top for drying dishes or mixing salads. The mold is simple to make and should not scare anyone off who can glue boards together and sand and paint same.

2 page(s)

£2.72
How to Build a Fiberglass Icebox (Pub. No. 7015)

Now that the techniques of fiberglass construction have reached a stage where it is relatively easy for the average boat owner to build some of his interior accommodations of this versatile material.

It’s high time you gave that old, rusty, landlubber ice-box, chopped up to fit the space, the deep six and build a rust-proof, modern job out of fiberglass. Lay down that belaying pin, mate; it won’t cost a fortune. In fact, the cost will surprise you, it’s so little in comparison to what you’d have to pay for almost any other material. It’s cheap, it’s easy to build with, it’s the most efficient of materials and you can tailor it to fit right into that spot where you’d like to have an icebox. And if that’s not enough, it will look better than a professional job and be as modern as tomorrow, besides. All you need is a little plywood, some pieces of Celotex for insulation, a few yards of fiberglass boat cloth and a quart or two of plastic.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Build Your Own Fiberglass Refrigerator (Pub. No. 7016)

Heres a project for the winter months when the boat is in storage—build a refrigerator.

Modern life being what it is, refrigeration is practically indispensable. There are two essential parts to a good refrigerator: the mechanical cooling system and a perfectly insulated box. There are many electrical refrigeration units on the market especially designed for use on boats, which run from either 6 or 12 volt batteries and there are a few which can be switched over to shoreside current when the boat is at her own berth. Several of these units are offered by manufacturers and they are also being shown in boat shows around the country. The refrigerator box you can build yourself and it will be better insulated than most home refrigerators if you use foam plastic insulation as directed in this piece. More important—you can tailor the box to the space allowable in your own galley and the cost will be small compared to buying a commercial refrigerator.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Leakproof Cockpit of Fiberglass, A (Pub. No. 7017)

Are you tired of that leaky cockpit? Soggy ropes in a damp lazaret? Water dripping on the quarter berths? If you are, replace the old dog with a fiberglass cockpit.

It will be light and will provide more room below, yet be roomier on deck because it can be molded in one piece and suspended from the deck. A fiberglass cockpit is fairly easy to build and install; if you follow the plan outlined by the accompanying drawings you can channel the water through the built-in gutters into-the scuppers-in the cockpit well.

2 page(s)

£2.72
How to Build a Boat Landing on a Muddy Shore (Pub. No. 7018)

Rot-proof fiberglass sandbags and logs of Styrofoam provide a solution.

Many boatmen do their boating in areas where facilities for landing are sometimes no more than a muddy marsh or a crumbling sand bank washed away by the river day by day. Most of these waterways never saw anything more than a canoe until the boat trailer came into general use. Alongside facilities for the new crop of boats are non-existent; they are generally too expensive for an individual to build if he uses conventional means to improve his waterfront area. I became literally bogged down in this problem not long ago when I spent a weekend with a friend at his hidden retreat. He had frontage on a lake, but we had to wade hip-deep in mud to get to the boat he anchored there. After we got aboard, carrying our clothes, we had to take a swim in deep water to clean up. And we bad to repeat this performance when we landed back at camp. Well, this was all right when I was a young lad of 30 or so, but now. . . We decided to try to find a solution. What we came up with was effective and cheap, so I think it fruitful to pass along to you.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Plywood for Interiors (Pub. No. 7028)

When the planking is finished the boat is only one-third finished.

The other two-thirds is finishing the cabin and interior and other miscellaneous items. So if your design is such that you cannot use waterproof marine plywood for the hull you certainly can take advantage of it for interiors. It seems that most of the articles recently written cover its application to hulls omitting almost entirely the interior. Therefore this question is certainly a timely one and it is hoped that these few notes may guide others building or remodeling the interior. You don’t need special designs to use waterproof plywood for the inside. Every boat can use it profitably and almost to the exclusion of old fashioned methods because almost everything is a flat surface or simple curve. It certainly isn’t like trying to bend compound curves.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Building a Plywood Cabin (Pub. No. 7029)

The sides of a light plywood cabin can be built without any separate frame as the different plies running at right angles hold it together and support the top much as a frame would be expected to do where a single thickness of wood is used. However, where the design calls for very large windows so that the cabin sides are mostly cut away, leaving little support to the top, it would seem to be a good plan to provide a framing piece of oak between windows or where ever there is room for it. This could be an oak batten about 1/2 inch thick by 2 inches or more wide, securely fastened with screws or bolts.

2 page(s)

£2.72
All Purpose Knockabout (Pub. No. 7031)

by Hi Sibley

No-nonsense, workaday skiff will support three children, one adult. Takes only 11 hours to build.

This boat has half again the load capacity of a conventional 12’ skiff and is designed for the simplest construction with ordinary hand tools. All materials are available at any lumberyard; the mastic tape and marine glue at a boatyard. General over-all dimenslpns are given in Fig. 1.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Ramp Docking for Your Boat (Pub. No. 7032)

by Mel Berg

Here’s an inexpensive way to keep your expensive boat high and dry and out of trouble when your back is turned.

A ramp dock for your expensive fiber-glass or metal boat will keep the craft in good condition, protecting it from the hazards of dockside mooring, from damage caused by floating debris, and from the pounding, rubbing and scraping of high waves. The ramp mooring has additional advantages: your boat will be cleaner, there will be less waterline scum, and your boat will always be dry and ready to go. When the boat is parked on the ramp dock, its rear drain plug can be opened to let rain water run out instead of bailing or pumping the hulldry, an annoying procedure which is necessary when you use floating moorings. The ramp dock is a boxlike, two-section, angle-iron frame 18’ long and 4’ wide, supported at each end and in the middle by 2” pipe standards. The two 9’ wooden top deck sections are built into the angl-eiron frame and the dock is complete. This type of dock construction allows the entire dock to be removed from the water for winter storage or in case of high water, or for any other reason.

4 page(s)

£2.72
Build a Table for Your Boat (Pub. No. 7034)

by Gordon P. Manning

Eating aboard a small boat is just as much fun as eating ashore when you have a table like this one that’s stable and stowable
.

Picnicking, as most everyone knows, is one of the numerous pleasures which your small boat can afford you. But sometimes, when you have reached your favorite spot, you decide you’d rather eat aboard; maybe because the area is crowded or perhaps it looks like rain. Eating aboard a small boat can be just as much fun as eating ashore, if you have a decent table on which to set up the food and drinks. Unfortunately, however, most outboards have no adequate flat space for this purpose. Lugging along a folding table is a nuisance, and in many cases is impossible to use. A year ago I designed and built this little folding table for our outboard, and it has paid back its modest cost many times over in pleasure and satisfaction. Essentially, it is a hinged affair which hangs from the lower edge of the cockpit gunwale and is entirely out of the way when not in use. To set it up, you merely lift it up, slip a leg into sockets on the floor and table bottom, and you have as stable a table as you can find. A hook and eye keep the table from banging against the hull when it is in the folded position. A hole drilled in the leg provides the means of hanging it up.

2 page(s)

£2.72
Per Page      1 - 20 of 272
More books