Boatcraft & Fitting-Out

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Build a Table for Your Boat (Pub. No. 7034)

by Gordon P. Manning

Eating aboard a small boat is just as much fun as eating ashore when you have a table like this one that’s stable and stowable
.

Picnicking, as most everyone knows, is one of the numerous pleasures which your small boat can afford you. But sometimes, when you have reached your favorite spot, you decide you’d rather eat aboard; maybe because the area is crowded or perhaps it looks like rain. Eating aboard a small boat can be just as much fun as eating ashore, if you have a decent table on which to set up the food and drinks. Unfortunately, however, most outboards have no adequate flat space for this purpose. Lugging along a folding table is a nuisance, and in many cases is impossible to use. A year ago I designed and built this little folding table for our outboard, and it has paid back its modest cost many times over in pleasure and satisfaction. Essentially, it is a hinged affair which hangs from the lower edge of the cockpit gunwale and is entirely out of the way when not in use. To set it up, you merely lift it up, slip a leg into sockets on the floor and table bottom, and you have as stable a table as you can find. A hook and eye keep the table from banging against the hull when it is in the folded position. A hole drilled in the leg provides the means of hanging it up.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Double-Duty Cruise Tank (Pub. No. 7036)

by Gordon P. Manning

Expand your effective cruising range with this gasoline-storage unit that also acts as helmsman’s seat.

Most outboards today are still struggling along with the 6gal. gas tank that came with the motor. This allows you little over an hour’s cruising time—obviously not enough if any cruising distances are involved. As a result, the average outboarder gets himself one or two 5-gal. cans to hold a reserve supply, to permit him to increase his operating range. These cans, loose in a small boat, present a definite safety hazard. And transferring gasoline from can to tank is a risky business, even in calm water. So risky, in fact, that boating authorities insist that all cans and portable tanks be removed from the boat before refueling. Larger, built-in tanks are the only safe answer to this gas-supply problem for outboards of 15’ to 21’. Cruising or long-range tanks are now available in styles and sizes to fit any boat. With one of these as a basis, you have a good start toward-worryfree bqating. This article tells you how you can solve the gasoline-storage problem safely and at the same time make a useful helmsman’s seat with lockers. The tank goes below and the seat above, The seat itself may even be an adaptation of the existing one, to hold expenses down.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Floating Dock (Pub. No. 7037)

by Hi Sibley

Styrofoam blocks are the key to this snug offshore slip. There sure won’t be any more snooping around your boat if you make this.

By locating your dock a few yards offshore, you put your boat out of reach of inquisitive kids and meddlers. Four 2”-pipe posts driven into the bottom hold it in position better than mooring lines, and the iron brackets permit it to rise and fall with change in water levels.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Auxiliary Motor Mounts (Pub. No. 7039)

Three different types of outboard motor mounts to add to your sailboat.

A sailboat that is drifting helplessly may present a picturesque scene; but, to its occupants, it's of scant comfort to know that a becalmed wind might eventually stir again to return their craft speedily to home port. On the other hand, if a sudden gale forces a captain to drop his sails, it is most comforting to be able to rely on auxiliary power in order to navigate through the blast. By means of one of these special transom mounts, an outboard motor can be adapted to any 12- to 30-ft. cruiser or sailboat to serve as auxiliary power in case of a breakdown in the weather or the main power plant. Even if you have excellent sailing weather, you ll find it much easier to moor in crowded anchorage or to navigate through a twisting channel with the aid of a small outboard motor. The article illustrates three types of mounts, which adapt different-sized outboard motors to various transoms. The mounts can be quickly built from scrap materials usually found in the basement or junkyard. In case the shaft of your outboard motor is too short, motor manufacturers are prepared to supply motors with longer shafts just for this purpose.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Table and Companionway Steps (Pub. No. 7040)

by William D. Jackson

Want to dress up your cruiser? Here are two accessories you can build adapted to both cruisers and sailers.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Installing Built-in Fuel Tanks (Pub. No. 7041)

Here's how to extend the range of your power boat.

If you aleady own or are thinking of building one of the popular large outboard boats, powered with one of the new big engines, you may want to consider the advantages of built-in tanks. Extra capacity tanks will give you increased range and much more independence from gas docks. They are also considerably easier to fill. But even more important is the safety factor, since the larger tanks eliminate the need to transfer gas from one can to another during a long run. Any time gas is poured from one can to another in a boat there is an excellent chance that some of the explosive gas fumes will be trapped in the boat's bilge. If these ever ignite, you are liable to make unhappy headlines. For really good remote tank operation, outboard engines should be equipped with suction-type fuel pumps. The pressure system used on many engines works very successfully with 6-gal. portable cans, but has serious drawbacks when larger tanks are pressurized. If the fuel level is low in a 20-gal. tank, it may take half an hour to build enough pressure to get the boat in operation. So if your engine has a pressure fuel system, change it to a fuel pump, for reliable, trouble-free large tank operation. The changeover is simple to make and relatively inexpensive.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Up-Date Your Boat Trailer (Pub. No. 7042)

by Fred W. Goette III

There's no need to part with a tried-and-true boat trailer just because you've bought a new boat not even if it's a cat or trimaron. Here's how you can modify it to suit your boat and do away with wet-foot launchings at the same time

It's easy to envy the owner of a modern low-slung boat trailer as he launches his boat in minutes with hardly a splash. But the advantages of older trailers, such as good road clearance and tires that interchange with those on your car, can hardly be denied. You can have all of these features working for you at once by outfitting your trailer with up-to-date equipment that costs only $24 for a single-keel, 14-ft. boat. Or, if you ve bought a new multi-hull boat, you can custom fit your present trailer to it with a similar setup for each keel.

4 page(s)

$3.50
All Weather Boat Shed (Pub. No. 7043)

Build and store your boat in this dual-use structure.

Here is a boat storage shed that will not only provide a weatherproof place in which to build your boat, but will also serve as a floating or stationary boat house after you have completed that dream vessl. If you own waterfront property, the shed can be pulled ashore and your boat stored in it safe and dry during the inactive winter season. for this use it might be well to cover the side walls with inexpensive polyethylene film obtainable at lumber yards.

1 page(s)

$3.50
How to Make a Marine Railway (Pub. No. 7045)

by Hi Sibley

Here’s an effective and easily-constructed project for hauling that big boat out of the water for bottom repairs or cleaning. And it’s no chore to dismantle the setup since the track is made in 10-foot sections bolted together.

In Fig. A is the layout. The dotted lines show the craft approaching the car in shallow water. In fact the car is drawn in simultaneously with the boat until it rests firmly in the cradle. Two men at the winch can draw the boat up completely out of the water.

3 page(s)

$3.50
Small Box Masts Can be Made of Plywood (Pub. No. 7055)

bv William F. Crosbv

A light, hollow mast makes an ideal spar for any boat. Naturally, every pound that is added above the waterline will become a handicap to stability and generally speaking the boat with the lightest mast is the best. The mast shown herewith has been designed` to be made of eighth inch waterproof plywood. Its strength is ample for the sail area that it would carry. The mast is eighteen feet four inches in length and has been designed to suit the plywood boat Pup. It is a square mast instead of the round type specified. Roughly figured, this mast, if built to the required size and of the materials specified, will weigh about sixteen pounds. A rectangular box-shaped mast of usual constrnction of the same dimensions would weigh about seventeen pounds. A solid mast of the same dimensions and material would weigh about twenty-five pounds. The mast shown would, therefore, weigh just about half what the solid mast would come to.

2 page(s)

$3.50
When the Auto Engine Goes to Sea (Pub. No. 5352)

by Hank Holcomb

Save several hundred dollars by doing your own engine conversion.

Not so very long ago, if you had suggested to an inboard motor dealer the iden of converting an automobile engine to marine use, he would probably have raised his eyebrows, patted you on the shoulder condescendingly and said, “Well, Mr. Smith, automobile engines are fine in automobiles, but wouldn’t you rather have a regular marine engine in your boat, something that was designed specifically for a boat?” Nowadays, however, the motor dealer is not so quick to sneer at the marine conversion. He knows that in the last two or three years the boating public has grown considerably wiser regarding such thingss. Many boaters are aware that, in fact, nearly all so-called marine engines of less than 400 hp. are simply converted automobile, truck and industrial engines no matter what you call them. He has learned that manufacturers of regular marine engines buy them and convert them in their factories, in much the same manner as we are going to show you, and then sell them under their corporate name or catchier trade names as marine engines.

11 pages

$7.95
Installing Steerers and Controls (Pub. No. 5353)

by Bob Whittier

One of the projects most often undertaken by boaters is the installation of motor controls for the remote operation of steering, throttle and gearshift. Many large outboard motors are sold with tailored-to-fit throttle and shift control assemblies, while accessory firms offer a wide selectioa of steerers and motor controls which are adaptable to most makes of motors thanks to a selection of terminal fittings and attachments. At reasonable cost, and in a day or two of work it is possible to rig your own system in dependable and smooth-acting fashion. Remote controls add much to the pleasure, convenience and safety of outboard boating by putting the driver forward in the boat wbere over-the~bow visibility is best, and by affording firmer, more sensitive control of sttering. Although fine how-to-do-it instructions accompany these products, there is much background knowledge not in them which anyone would find helpful .

16 pages

$7.95
Silent Fishing Partner (Pub. No. 5355)

by Harold P. Strand

An electrically-powered outboard that you can build yourself that fills the bill for children's boats, trolling, and canvas fold-boats,

Fisherman, father, or small boat fan, you’ll find plenty of use for an electric outboard. Designed especially for fishermen who take their trolling seriously, it will also get you on many of the new reservoirs where fishing is prime, but gasoline motors are prohibited. Light weight and silent operation make the electric a partner for kayak-type folding craft and the easiest rig for kids to use while learning their outboard seamanship. The basic design calls for a 6-volt automotive-type generator adapted by resistance controls to be powered by a 12-volt, 66-plate battery. Heavier-duty batteries will, of course, provide longer running times before recharging is necessary. The photograph shows the finished trolling motor mounted on transom alongside a larger outboard; electric is always ready for trolling use. Tested in this way with a 600-lb. gross load, six hours of trollingwere obtained from a single battery charge with continuous speeds of 3-4 mph.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

$7.95
Propellers for Auxiliaries (Pub. No. 5443)

by Philip L. Rhodes

Ever since auxiliary power became a practical necessity on cruising sailboats there has been a continual battle of opinion regarding the best location for the propeller. While other positions are not out of the realm of possibility, auxiliary propellers generally are placed either (A) on the centerline in an aperture in the deadwood and rudder, (B) off-center where the shaft and heel are supported by a strut, or (C) on the centerline with the wheel completely abaft the hull and rudder where the propeller shaft extends past the stern post or, more recently, through the rudder stock in the manner devised by Paine. The purpose of these notes is to consider the relative merits of these three propeller positions as they affect the performance of a boat both under sail and under power.

8 pages

$6.95
How to "Glass" a boat (Pub. No. 5476)

by George Emory

All you need to know about fabrics, resins and application techniques to turn out a perfect job.

A new fabric-resin skin will not only strengthen your wood hull and improve its appearance, but also cut your seasonal maintenance to a mere sponge-and-water rinse. Strictly speaking, “glassing” means covering a hull with fiberglass fabric and resin. However, other fabrics having different characteristics are often used to cover boat hulls (people speak of “fiberglassing with Dynel”), so the first step is picking a fabric with the quality you need most. This could be maximum strength or minimum weight. Or, you might want a flexible, abrasion-resistant skin, or decking with a built-in nonskid surface. The fabrics that lead the field (many others have been tried) are fiberglass, Dynel, Vectra and canvas.

8 pages

$6.95
Right Prop for Your Boat, The (Pub. No. 5479)

by Art Mikesell

There’s a good chance that you can get a boost in performance by switching props. To find out for sure, try this easy test
.

The sole function of a propeller is to turn power into push. With the right prop your boat will be a joy to operate, an agile, responsive rig running at top efficiency. Any other prop is a step in the wrong direction, because it won’t deliver all the push your engine can provide. Most boats today are running with props that do not quite match the requirements of the motor, hull and boat owner. When you buy a motor, you have to choose a prop on the basis of the motor manufacturer’s recommendations as listed on a prop selection chart. These recommendations are based on horsepower, boat length, gross load and intended use. They’re designed to prevent you from making a bad error in prop selection by limiting your choice to a comparatively small number of propellers.

15 pages

$7.95
How to Build a Boat Trailer (Pub. No. 5527)

Three Designs by William Jackson, John W. MacFarlane, et. al.

From the First Article: "A Trailer for the boat has many advantages and here is one simple in construction, easy to build, that will last a life time and is highly recommended for your boat, whether you buy one or build your craft yourself. The advantages of this trailer are something like a mobile marine railway. The boat may be used anywhere an auto may go and regardless whether your boat is an outboard, sailboat, or small inboard runabout you are free to explore any waterway and trail your boat home for storage in a safe place, until ready for use again. The first item in construction of a trailer is a suitable axle, wheels, and springs, these parts being readily obtained from junked autos. Select a front axle complete with wheels, while springs may be from any auto, old tires are satisfactory as little wear is encountered in trailing a boat. The axle selected must, have the steering knuckles rigidly secured to prevent the wheels turning in or out and this is accomplished by providing strap iron lugs, bolting over the steering knuckles or better yet by welding the steering knuckles fast to prevent movement. Note: This recommendation was a good one in the days before front-wheel drive cars. It avoided the weight and complication of the differential but added the complication of welding the steering knuckles. Today's best answer is the rear axle from a front-wheel drive car; readily available, no differential, no steering knuckles and, because of the supply, relatively inexpensive.

36 pages, 3 plate(s)

$10.95
Basic Principles of Sails and Rigging (Pub. No. 5532)

 Sails, sails, sails--small wonder that the average beginner is a little at sea. Well he knows that a sail is nothing more or less than a piece of cloth used in propelling a boat through the water, but of the wide variety of types and of the various strings which control these different sails, his knowledge is painfully scant--so limited that a Ketch is often pointed out as a Yawl, a Knock-about is invariably given its family name of Sloop, and a Bermudian is off-times described in a manner which is not at all salt as, that sassy looking tub with the tipsy mast. In looking at some of these different types of sail, we will consider the location and shape only, for therein lies the key, in most cases, as to which class the boat belongs. First of all, that typical snub-nosed American, the Cat-rig, or rather Catboat, since the hull used with this type of sail is, half-consciously perhaps, always considered as part of the whole. You will notice that there is a single mast, set well forward, with a boom attached to the lower end and a gaff to the top or upper end. The sail is fastened to these three--mast, boom and gaff--and, being single, is naturally the mainsail; also, since the top or head of the sail is supported by a gaff, we have gaff-headed. Thus, a Cat-rig might be roughly described as a single, gaff-headed sail set on a mast well forward without any additions in the shape of either headsails or topsails or added spars. With the addition of a jib sail forward, and a change in the mast location, the Catboat becomes a Sloop, (from the Dutch Sloep). The Sloop rig is the commonest one-masted rig in America, being changed to suit various localities. Some of these changes have been unimportant; others have merited a new name for the rig thus evolved.

24 pages, 4 plate(s)

$9.95
Repairing Damage to Fiberglass (Pub. No. 5626)

There are millions of pleasure craft of all sizes and types in America. Most boats being built today are made of fiberglass, a marvelous material that has reduced the cost of production, permitting almost production-line methods without the need for expensive, and scarce, skilled craftsmen. Boats with fiberglass hulls also reduce the amount of maintenance work, but there is no material that is maintenance-free. Even fiberglass is heir to many ailments such as crazing-—small “alligator” cracks-—of the gel coat surface; fading and chalking colors under some conditions; cracks due to unusual stress; delamination due to poor construction; leaks around fittings due to improper fastening or crushing of the inner cellular core; separation of the deck from the hull; scratches, gouges, and punctures due to collisions. Here's how to fix these problems.

33 pages

$9.95
Repairing Damage to Aluminum (Pub. No. 5627)

Aluminum, used extensively in smaller boats, has become popular as a construction material for larger craft, especially cruising and racing boats. This wider use of aluminum, a tough, strong material that is impervious to almost everything except galvanic corrosion, was stimulated in part by its application in 12 meter America’s Cup contenders of recent years. Aluminum, however, is susceptible to dents, and most problems with the material result from boats banging into docks or other objects. Small, shallow dents can usually be pounded out with a mallet by holding a heavy, solid piece of wood on the outside of the hull. The dent can then be removed first by hammering around its perimeter, gradually working towards the center. This booklet explains how to fix this and many other kinds of damage to aluminum hulls.

8 pages

$6.95
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