Boatcraft & Fitting-Out

Sort By:  
Easy Method of Making A Grooved Spar, An (Pub. No. 7709)

The making of tunneled or grooved spars usually requires special tools. The method described here enables the amateur with a limited number of tools in his workshop to make professional looking spars. Laminated construction sis used for both strength and simplicity.

1 page(s)

$3.50
How to Lay Out Spars for a Marconi Rig (Pub. No. 7710)

by Robert M. Steward

Masts are calculated as columns, booms as beams, therefore the load and the length of the longest unsupported span are factors determining the size of the maximum section. The calculated section is required only at the middle of that span, where the greatest load occurs, and this point on a mast is half way from the deck to jib stay, and at the mid-length of a boom. Therefore, a spar can be tapered down smaller each side of the largest section, but to save work most economical builders make masts of constant section from the step to the point described above and then taper to the top, where the saving in weight does the most good. Booms, being shorter and simpler, should always be shaped to both ends.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Balance of Sailing Boats, The (Pub. No. 7712)

A Rough Method of Determining Proper Location of the Sails in Small Boats

The location of the mast (or masts) in a sailing boat, and the consequent disposition of the areas of sail, must be arranged to suit certain conditions or the boat will very likely not perform properly under canvas. The sail cannot be placed anywhere in the boat. It must be placed so that the center of its area bears a certain relationship to the center of the underwater plane of the hull. When the sail plan is placed in its proper relationship to the underwater body of the boat,  the boat is said to be properly "balanced" and it is to be expected that the boat will sail on her course, on all points of sailing, without the need of much corrective pulling one way or the other on the part of the rudder. A perfectly balanced boat should need no rudder at all, except for alteration of the direction of her progress--in other words, in the perfectly balanced boat one should be able, after settling the boat on the desired course, to take the rudder off entirely, and she should keep on this course, provided the wind were steady and the sea smooth, indefinitely.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Historical Cat Boat Rigs and Lines (Pub. No. 7713)

3 pp., illus. with lines and rigs of 12 catboats.

$3.50
Your Propeller (Pub. No. 7714)

by C.H. Van Dusen

An article which describes in the simplest terms the underlying principles of propellers, why they work, slip, and they way they are chosen.

In reality it is very simple to understand. If you screw a nut on a bolt, the distance that the nut travels in each complete revolution is called the pitch. Get this clearly. Now, in the propeller, we have exactly the same thing and the pitch of the propeller (usually given in inches) is the distance that the propeller would travel through the water, in the ahead direction, if it could be screwed through the fluid as the nut is screwed onto the bolt. Since the propeller is turning in water though, it will be at once apparent that it is not possible for the propeller to travel forward or backward without some loss due to the slippage of the water off the blades. The water is not solid enough, in other words. Therefore, we come to a rule which, for the sake of argument, we will term Rule 1: The difference between the actual speed of the boat and the actual pitch speed of the propeller is called “slip.” It is usually expressed in percentages

2 page(s)

$3.50
Curve Sheet of Rudder Areas (Pub. No. 7715)

by George L. Cary

The area of the rudder must be proportionate to the area of the lateral plane, and in these curves the author has approximated the lateral plane for various classes.

1 page(s)

$3.50
Measuring Propeller Pitch (Pub. No. 7717)

Two methods for measuring the pitch of your own propeller.

1 page(s)

$3.50
Method of Determining Balance in Sailing Hulls, A (Pub. No. 7718)

The "Metacentric Shelf" system and how it works.

by Douglas H. C. Birt

The so-called Metacentric Shelf is one of the few systems in yacht design which may claim to have evolved by truly scientific methods. It has developed from step by step experiments first with model yachts and later with the real things. Some years ago Engineer Rear Admiral A. Turner, R.N., originator of the metacentric shelf system of hull balance, designed and built a model he called “Principia,” which embodied the first elements of the theory of balance. Following this came a chain of such experiments carried out by various people under Admiral Turner’s guidance. Gradually the principle of balance was formulated on the evidence of experimental success and failure and amplified by mathematical proof. Today the metacentric shelf has lifted yacht design from the category of a rather nebulous art, and placed it on a scientific basis. It is now possible to ensure, with a fair degree of certainty, in the design stage, that a yacht will be well mannered and docile—will have that peculiar quality known as balance.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Rigging Adjustable Fenders on Tracks (Pub. No. 7722)

If you dock your craft in a number of different harbors, or cruise or sail on tidal waters, adjusting boat fenders to the proper height and position to protect the sides of your hull can be a problem. This project offers a method of rigging boat fenders so that they can be quickly adjusted for any kind of dock. The system is particularly helpful on tidal waters where high dock posts or pilings are common, but this system is a big advantage anywhere a boat has to dock against posts because horizontally slung boat fenders just do not offer sufficient protection when there is a heavy chop. In such situations, fender boards are the best solution. But fender boards must be rigged in the proper location to span dock posts, and a boat just does not have enough cleats or fender hooks to meet every situation.

3 page(s)

$3.50
How to Build a Swim Platform (Pub. No. 7724)

If you have priced swimming platforms, you know that they are expensive. Small ones in kit form cost well over $100, and the price goes up to $600 or $700. It is not too difficult to build a swim platform for your boat, and you can save a considerable amount of money if you use marine plywood instead of teak or mahogany. Swim platforms on inboard boats are mounted close to the water, about 4 inches above the waterline. On stern-drive craft they are mounted higher to clear the drive unit when it is tilted upward. On a 22 or 24 foot stern-drive cruiser, for example, the platform is usually about halfway between the chine and the rub rail, or about in the middle of the transom. Inboard boats generally have curved transoms while sterndrive boats usually have straight transoms. This project is designed for a stern-drive cruiser with a curved transom that is 7 feet 6 inches wide. It calls for a 7 foot swim platform. But if your boat has a straight transom or a different beam, it will be easy to modify the following construction procedure for your craft.

4 page(s)

$3.50
How to Make an Anchor Line Reel (Pub. No. 7725)

Where and how to store a few hundred feet of nylon anchor line can present quite a problem on a small craft. Because a boat’s anchor line is its “emergency brake,” the anchor should always be ready for instant use. Most anchors can be carried securely and neatly outside on the craft’s forward deck. The anchor line, however, should be stored inside and out of the weather. Many boats come equipped with anchor chocks on the deck and an appropriate through-deck fitting, called a deck pipe that permits the line to be fed from the anchor through the deck’s surface and into an anchor line storage area. Below deck, a means must be provided to keep the line from tangling when stored. There is one way to keep an anchor line ready to pay out quickly, and that is to store it on a reel just like fishing line.

3 page(s)

$3.50
Installing Cleats-Winches-Rails and Pulpits (Pub. No. 7726)

This Data Sheet deals with various methods of mounting deck fittings on fiberglass decks with foam cores, solid fiberglass decks, and wooden decks.

Mounting a cleat, winch, railing or pulpit is not generally a major project, especially if the new fitting is to be installed in a location on the deck that already has been properly reinforced. There are a number of mounting options available to the do-it-yourselfer, but they depend on the type of deck construction.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Installing a Windlass (Pub. No. 7727)

A windlass, depending on its location, poses a different installation problem for boat owners. Here, we will cover two types of installations. One is installing a windlass on a fiberglass deck. The other is installing an electric-powered windlass below deck that would be ideal for larger craft .

4 page(s)

$3.50
Adding Grab Rails to the Cabin Top (Pub. No. 7728)

Adding grab rails to the roof of a craft’s cabin is not a difficult job, and it can literally be a lifesaver for anyone working around the sides of the boat. It is possible to buy metal pipe with end and intermediate supports that can be bolted into place, but these can be difficult to locate. Two methods of making grab rails are discussed here: one is for an all-wood railing; the other is for a metal rail with wooden supports.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Building a Stabilizer--A Flopper-Stopper (Pub. No. 7729)

("FLOPPER STOPPERS")

For more than a century, various kinds of devices have been used on boats to reduce the rolling action caused by waves. The most successful stabilizers are movable fins, but they are used only on ocean liners and large, expensive yachts. Many complex systems have been developed but a simple way is to use a pair of sea anchors with weights to hold them down and add stability. This "flopper-stopper" rig consists of a pole rigged at right angles from each side of the boat with a sea anchor and weight hanging down from the end of each pole, several feet out from the boat. The farther out the anchors are placed, the more efficient they will be.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Building a Boarding Stepladder (Pub. No. 7731)

Many modern boats feature high sides or plenty of freeboard in their cockpit areas that add to boating safety, but make it more difficult for passengers and crew to get on and off the craft. An inboard stepladder can solve this problem. The boarding stepladder in this project has only two steps about 10 inches apart that can be modified to fit your boat by adding or omitting a step, or by possibly changing the height of the steps to suit the situation.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Installing Trim Tabs (Pub. No. 7732)

Planing-type boats that are reluctant to plane are not only fuel hogs but they also can be dangerous. When the bow of a boat rides too high, the view of the helmsman is obscured to the point where he may be unable to spot a water-soaked log or timber. The hazard can be even greater when leaving a busy harbor with heavy boat traffic. Overloading and underpowering are two reasons why some boats squat at the stern and are sluggish in getting into a planing attitude. Load placement in the boat can be another contributing factor and as simple a procedure as moving the passengers forward can work wonders to improve the performance of a craft. Trimming the boat by shifting weight, including the weight of passengers, may not, however, be the ideal solution. Guests may prefer to ride in the cockpit rather than in a forward cabin. The obvious solution to an underpowered boat that is slow to come on plane is more power, which can be costly. If the problem is primarily a matter of trim and not of power, the addition of trim tabs can help solve it.

2 page(s)

$3.50
Some Handy Ways to Stow Anchors (Pub. No. 7736)

You can save yourself some embarrassment and prevent damage to your craft by carrying an anchor In a handy place, ready to use at a moment’s notice. There are many places where you may be cruising—long, narrow channels; among islands and reefs; in crowded harbors—where a sudden rigging or auxiliary power failure can get you into instant trouble. It is not the time to have to rummage through a cockpit anchor locker or a mess of snarled line in the forepeak to get an anchor clear and rigged for use. On the other hand, no sailor wants to have an anchor adrift on the forepeak in heavy weather. For that reason, many popular types of anchors are usually chocked in bronze fittings that support the anchor crown and fluke tips, and provide a tiedown for the shank. There are, however, some serious shortcomings with this type of installation. For example, jib sheets are likely to snag on the anchor stock when the boat is tacked. When handling headsails, you can accidentally step on the stock and wrench the anchor out of its chocks, sometimes bending them as well. And, the anchor stocks are apt to be in the way of your ankles. There are a number of solutions to such problems depending on the type of anchor you have and the configuration of your boat

4 page(s)

$3.50
Mounting an Outboard on a Sailboat (Pub. No. 7737)

Many sailors like to add an outboard auxiliary to their daysailers or trailerable cruising boats. And, anglers who fish offshore or on big inland lakes also like to add a smaller outboard if their crafts are equipped with a single big outboard, sterndrive or inboard engine. Such an addition provides efficient fuel-saving trolling and a “spare tire” for getting home in case the main engine has trouble.

4 page(s)

$3.50
Basic Electrics (Pub. No. 7739)

The electrical system of a boat is often regarded by owners as something to be avoided, especially if it involves messing around with a maze of wiring behind the control console. The do-it-yourselfer who tackles the construction of a trolling center for his fishing boat without hesitation may be reluctant to install an electronic depth sounder, because the last time he tried to fix a light switch at home it resulted in a shower of sparks, a blown fuse, and a screwdriver with a scorched tip,to say nothing of shaky nerves and a firm resolve to leave electrical repairs to someone who knows what must be done. Although this is excellent advice, it need not prevent a novice from replacing blown fuses, making simple installations of electrical equipment and accessories, or even checking out a boat’s electrical system, providing, of course, that he knows what he is doing. And, this is the purpose of this Data Sheet—to provide an easy step-by-step guide to Basic Electrics .

3 page(s)

$3.50
Per Page      61 - 80 of 171
More books