Repairing Damage 

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Repairing Damage to Fiberglass (Pub. No. 5626)

There are millions of pleasure craft of all sizes and types in America. Most boats being built today are made of fiberglass, a marvelous material that has reduced the cost of production, permitting almost production-line methods without the need for expensive, and scarce, skilled craftsmen. Boats with fiberglass hulls also reduce the amount of maintenance work, but there is no material that is maintenance-free. Even fiberglass is heir to many ailments such as crazing-—small “alligator” cracks-—of the gel coat surface; fading and chalking colors under some conditions; cracks due to unusual stress; delamination due to poor construction; leaks around fittings due to improper fastening or crushing of the inner cellular core; separation of the deck from the hull; scratches, gouges, and punctures due to collisions. Here's how to fix these problems.

33 pages

Repairing Damage to Aluminum (Pub. No. 5627)

Aluminum, used extensively in smaller boats, has become popular as a construction material for larger craft, especially cruising and racing boats. This wider use of aluminum, a tough, strong material that is impervious to almost everything except galvanic corrosion, was stimulated in part by its application in 12 meter America’s Cup contenders of recent years. Aluminum, however, is susceptible to dents, and most problems with the material result from boats banging into docks or other objects. Small, shallow dents can usually be pounded out with a mallet by holding a heavy, solid piece of wood on the outside of the hull. The dent can then be removed first by hammering around its perimeter, gradually working towards the center. This booklet explains how to fix this and many other kinds of damage to aluminum hulls.

8 pages

Repairing Damage to Wood (Pub. No. 5628)

In a world of tough fiberglass boats that make the boater’s life much easier, there are still plenty of dedicated lovers of wooden craft. Beside the warmth and character of wood, older wooden boats can be purchased at bargain prices. And many people are more than willing to pay the price of sanding, caulking, and repainting for the amenities they obtain in a tradi—tional carvel, strip-planked or lapstrake hull. For most, It is a labor of love, a rite of spring that is part of the fun and romance of boating. Wood boats, however, can be demanding. Problems have to be taken care of promptly before they become bigger problems.Here's how to do it.

20 pages

Fixing a Hole in a Metal Boat (Pub. No. 7939)

by Bob Stearns

If you own an aluminum boat and use it extensively, odds are that sooner or later it will develop a leak. And if rivets were used in its construction—especially below the waterline—odds are that one or more of them is the source of the leak. Aluminum flexes in use, and rivets in the area of stress work loose. Water begins to seep in, gradually getting worse. Unless you’ve cracked a chine or otherwise damaged some critical structural part of the hull, you probably can repair the boat without resorting to a high-priced shop to do the job for you. This includes not only leaky rivets, but punctures and holes (or gashes) as well. Just because the rivet installation leaks doesn’t mean the rivet has to be replaced. If it’s only loosened slightly and isn’t bent or deformed—and hasn’t enlarged or deformed the metal plates through which it passes—it probably can be tightened.

4 page(s)

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