Sail Boat Plans

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Sunray Jr.--Nat'l Triangle Class racing Knockabout (Pub. No. 5707)

by S. S. Rabl

A summer of one of the world’s most thrilling sports—sailboat racing— awaits him who builds this boat.

Triangle class rules are a result of careful study of other racing classes, and under them the man who builds his own boat at home has the same chances as those who can afford to have their craft professionally constructed, because cash outlay on the boat is predetermined in every important respect. Only three boats are needed to get a fleet charter from the N. T. C. R. A. and compete in the national regattas, so here’s an opportunity to organize a fleet in your locality, built at low cost. The past few years have seen a record-breaking revival of the small sailboat. Snipes, Comets and Moths have increased by leaps and bounds. Sunray Jr. is a compact and modernized version of the Sunray, and is eligible to race in the National Triangle class, one of the fairest and most democratic of the small boat racing classes. Like the construction of Sunray, that of the Junior is the acme of simplicity.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

International Star Class--A Brief History, The (Pub. No. 5709)

by G. W. Elder and Ernest Ratsey

In 1907, William Gardner designed the smallest keel sloop of its day. Known as the Bug Class, it was a Star in miniature. It was just one of the many semi-popular useless little classes of that time, too small for a full-grown man to really sail in. The lines of the Bug were not copied from any other existing class, but, in so far as such a thing is possible, were originated by Mr. Gardner and a Mr. Maybrey. At the suggestion of G. A. Corry, Gardner & Company enlarged their own design about five feet in length (the actual drawings being made by Francis Sweisguth) and thus the Star was produced. Isaac Smith of Port Washington built twenty-two of these boats and they were raced on Long Island Sound for the first time in 1911. Later the same year, eleven more were built by Green Brothers of Chelsea, Mass. These were, however, known as Nahant Bugs and were not recognized to be true Stars until the International Association was formed some ten years later. A third, and larger, class from the same design was attempted about 1913 and called the Fish Class. Four of these boats were built and proved a failure. While the larger and smaller variations of this design did not meet with success, the Star struck a happy medium and was destined to become the largest of all one-design classes and to revolutionize yacht racing in many respects. George A. Corry, “Father of the Stars,” was responsible for starting the Class. He conceived the idea of providing an inexpensive boat, that was a real little racing machine, for men of ability but moderate means. This was in the days of the large yacht, when racing was a rich man’s game and something of a society function as well. Small boats were considered playthings for boys, but it is well to note that from the beginning the Star was never intended as a training school for novices. It was dedicated to experienced skippers who could not afford large yachts. The recognition of ability, regardless of finincial or social status, was George Corry’s contribution to yachting.

19 pages

Bilgeboard Scows (Pub. No. 5714)

by Edwin M. and T.M. Chance

In the early 90’s a type of shoal-draught boat was introduced in England that came to be known as the Half-Rater. These boats were from I2 to 15 feet waterline length, with extreme overhangs forward and aft. The English boats were generally rigged with either a modified lug, or a sliding gunter, mainsail' with a jib carried either to the stem head or on a short bowsprit. In the United States the boats were developed both as true fin keel types, carrying a bulb of lead on a plate fin, and as centreborders. The owners and designers of English boats were inrested in the American boats and for that reason races between the two countries were suggested. The first contests were staged by the Seawanhaka-Corinthian Yacht Club for the Seawanhaka International Challenge Cup and were sailed between half-raters of this type, the foreign challenger being the Spruce IV and the American defender Ethelwyn, the challenger losing the series. The racing of these small boats led a number of the men interested in the class to develop hulls of greater displacement and carrying more sail, permitting the use of larger crews. From this foundation arose the unrestricted classes of the Massachusetts Bay Yacht Racing Association.

24 pages

Ice Boating (Pub. No. 5718)

by Edwin J. Schoettle

The past of ice boating, like much of history, is very obscure. It is generally believed that the Dutch were the first to indulge in the sport and that it came down to them through a long line of ice-loving forefathers. For when one thinks of Holland in winter, does not one always picture the Holland of Hans Brinker—with the ice-covered canals, and the joyous children skating to school or their more dignified elders going to work in like fashion? It is indeed not hard to visualize the same people sailing their crudely made ice boats in ancient times over their well-frozen inland waterways. It is more difficult to imagine the pigtailed chinamen sailing over the ice, but it is almost certain they used ice boats in the days of long ago. In Russia, Norway, and Sweden it is also a favorite winter pastime. The Rudder, February, 1910, published an article on Ice Yachting in Sweden, from which we take this: “Ice Yachting has taken a strong hold in Europe, particularly in Sweden—-the Stockholm Ice Yacht Club, for instance, having a fleet of over thirty-six boats, divided into classes as follows: First Class: For yachts of more than 250 feet of sail—six boats. Second Class: For yachts With 200 to 250 feet of sail—eleven boats. Third Class: For yachts 150 to 200 feet of sail—six boats. Fourth Class: For yachts of 150 feet of sail and under—thirteen boats, four of which used lateen sails.

13 pages

Mardi Gras--A midget Class Ocean Racer (Pub. No. 5720)

by Charles Bell

L.O.A. 26’, Displacement, 5,695 pounds, L.W.L. 19’2” A. H.17 degrees, Beam 7’9” PC .53 Draft 36” S. A. 266 sq. ft. Headroom in main cabin 5’4”—sleeps four to six

Mardi Gras is a midget ocean racer of shallow draft, with or without a centerboard, as the builder prefers. She will rate well, I think, considering the daffiness of the racing rules, but most of all she is the most comfortable, stable and sane arrangement I can make for a midget boat which crams aboard as many people as possible. However, she becomes a very roomy cruising yacht for a family of two to four and will give maximum fun with minimum work in upkeep. The cheapest boat to build is one which will cost the most to keep going. Therefore, I have specified what I consider to be the cheapest materials to use—the best. Salt water, erosion, corrosion, sun, rain, worms and fungi need to be met head on with the best materials available if one is to keep the maintenance bill down. And the investment in a boat does not go down the drain if she is built of fine materials so that she retains a good resale value. So, the finest job you can do in building her will make her a fine yacht worthy of anyone’s approval and attention. Mardi Gras will sail well without the centerboard, even though without it she gives up a fraction of her windward ability. But centerboard arrangements below the waterline which must be kept watertight are at best an added maintenance job if you want dry bilges. The one I have designed is as good as any such arrangement, but there are dozens which might work as well—you can take your pick. My personal thought is that most centerboard-keel yachts use the centerboard as a way of beating the zany racing rules and it does not really add much to the usefulness or pleasure of a yacht.

13 pages, 4 plate(s)

B-29--Racing-Cruiser Sloop (Pub. No. 5721)

by Charles Bell

Length    29’, LWL    20’, Beam    8’ 6”, Draft 4’ 4”, Sail area    382 sq. ft., Headroom    6’ 3”, Displacement    7,000 lbs., Sleeps four to six

By any standards, this sleek 29-footer must be considered a fine yacht.

Fiberglass hull, teak decks, spruce mast, stainless steel rigging, fittings and bronze hardware, yet she is easy to build and her probable cost will be about $4,200 for all materials including the motor. Some builders will shade this through wise buying and by forgoing some the finer interior equipment, winches and Dacron sails, but most owners will see the value of this beauty of a boat and will finish her in the finest way possible in order to make a good investment gilt-edged. It is interesting to note that the cost of the FRP hull, teak deck, mast and rigging will total less than half of the cost of the completed boat, so fittings and equipment are not the small items most people think they are and one of the reasons Why a fiberglass hull cannot save a giant proportion of the total cost in anything except a very small boat. B-29 enjoys another unique feature which, to my knowledge, has never been designed into a ballasted sailboat before, which is that she has positive floataion even when filled with water. The reason is that she has 7,280 lbs. of rigid urethane foam flotation built into the boat hull, deck and cabin and poured into all odd and unusable spaces. This is 280 lbs. more flotation than the total weight of the boat.

11 pages, 4 plate(s)

11-Ft. Catboat (Pub. No. 5730)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 11', BEAM 4' 6" SAIL AREA 85 SQ. FT.

Every youngster deserves the chance to skipper his own vessel. This one is perfect for a junior sailing program—but you’ll find it hard to keep your hand off the tiller of this easy sailing catboat.

This boat was designed as a beginning sailboat for the younger sailors, or for a simple, easy-tobuild cat for those who want something to knock about in. The hull is a type the author has used in many designs, and has found very satisfactory. These boats are reasonably fast, unusually stable, and handle and balance beautifully. Compared with most boats of their size, they are very hard to upset. The construction has been kept simple but no essential parts have been left out. The sides and bottom are portions of cylinders, and so may be planked with plywood or sheet metal without twisting the material. This makes for easy planking. The side and bottom frames are tied together with proper gussets and there are floor timbers on all frames. Small boats not having these floors and gussets are weak where they should be strong, and have been observed to go to pieces when washed ashore in hurricanes or other bad storms. The boats properly put together stood up to the beating. A cheaper and lighter boat can be built by leaving out some of the structural members but she will not last as long or be as watertight as a well-constructed boat. Using rollers, two people can put one of these boats on a trailer. With a small winch mounted on the front of the trailer, as many are now built, one man can do it alone. This boat would be suitable for a one-design class at a yacht club for its junior sailing program

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

Seventeen-Foot Knockabout (Pub. No. 5738)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 17', 6' 2", SAIL AREA 158 SQ. FT.

Race it, teach the kids to sail, or just knock about in it. Construction is easy—you can make up the pieces in your basement and put them together in your back yard. You’ll have a lot of fun building it, too

This is a family sailboat. She is roomy but not tubby, safe to let the youngsters sail, but not slow. In fact, she will give a good account of herself in racing if well sailed. The shape of the hull is worked out to make her easy to build, using either plywood or conventional planking. She can be carried about on a trailer.

22 pages, 3 plate(s)

Wendy--A Fiberglass Sailing Dinghy (Pub. No. 5748)

by Charles Bell

LOA 10', BEAM 41 3/4", SAIL AREA 55 SQ. FT.

Emerging as a new boatbuilding material with exciting possibilities for the amateur are the various resin plastics better known as fiber glass. Here’s how to build with them.

New building Methods made possible by fiber glass make Wendy a very cosy boat to build. She is built in a Masonite female mold which gives her a smooth outside finish with no necessity for grinding or sanding the cured fiber glass. Construction is the finest throughout—fiber-glass-reinforced plastic hull (with molded-in color), mast, boom, centerboard and rudder. She has oak gunwales, mahogany knees and seats and bronze hardware. An attractive feature is the mast which comes apart; both mast and boom can be stowed inside the boat. Wendy will row, tow and sail and because of her light weight can be stowed on the deck of many yachts without much effort. (She weighs about 150 pounds.) Her rugged construction can take the abuse which sometimes befalls a yacht dinghy. It took me two days to build the mold and two days to mold the hull. I built the mast, rudder, boom and centerboard in one day and the finishing, such as sanding the woodwork, mounting the hardware, seats and knees, consumed almost another day, making a total of six days from the time I started to build the mold until the boat was ready to sail. This little boat was no problem at all for two of us to put on top of the car and we carried her down the boat dock over our heads like a canoe. She sails extremely well and is very fast and maneuverable. Her sail area is plenty for her weight and the fiber-glass mast needs no rigging but uses a hold-down fastener to keep it from coming out.

22 pages, 3 plate(s)

Picaroon III (Pub. No. 5752)

by Sam Rabl


Thirsting for the high seas? Then come aboard this smar,t trim little 23’ cruising auxikary She’s the third in her line of fast-sailing, far-called boats

Picaroon, now there’s a name to conjure with. The first of a line to bear this name was one of my early boats. Built in 1926, she lived for over 20 years and gained both admiration and damnation through all of them. She reappeared in the second edition of my boatbuilding book, and over a hundred letters attested to the fact that she was still popular. Many people wrote me that they had built hen. Many of these inquired when I was going to redesign her a bit bigger. Well, here she is. She is the same sea-kindly hull enlarged to a more livable size. She has the same saucy look of the Pic and the same ease of construction as the original in which Les Hemingway sailed from Mobile to Fort Myers to Havana and Neuvitas in the epic voyage of his young life. There is a Picaroon II, and to keep her ancestry in line we will call her Picaroon III. She may be built with ordinary planking, as was the original, or she may be constructed with plywood and fiber-glassed

12 pages, 7 plate(s)

20-Ft. Waterline Sloop (Pub. No. 5761)

by Edson I. Schock


Salty and able, this little sailing craft is roomy enough for two on a cruise, easy to handle and designed for the amateur builder.

This boat was designed small enough to be convenient for day sailing, large enough for two folks to cruise in without being too uncomfortable, shallow draft for little harbors, and light enough to be carried about on a trailer. The rig has been kept simple so that one man can sail her. The construction is for amateur builders, using plywood for planking, and V-bottom hull form. She should present no building problems. An outboard motor, either over the stern or in a well will provide plenty of auxiliary power. Five hp is enough

18 pages, 5 plate(s)

How to Build Gemini (Pub. No. 5763)

by David D. Beach

LOA 21' 1 1/2", BEAM 7 3/4"

Bowing to the increased interest in twin-hulled craft, this creator of advanced designs comes up with a 21’ catamaran cruiser powered by two big outboards.

The catamaran has demonstrated the principle that two narrow hulls pound less than one hull having the same total planing area. The proof of this is in the performance of this type of craft in rough-water races where the cats regularly win and place out in front of the conventional hulls. While they are not, in themselves, that much faster than other boats, they can be driven harder without punishing the passengers beyond the limits of comfort. They win because their crews take less beating in the waters that jar and bruise the occupants of standard-hull craft. Gemini is a catamaran outboard cruiser which will appeal to builders in many areas of the country. It is ideal where waters demand the need for sea-kindliness, shelter and speed. Do you run over to Catalina, do you cruise north through the Straits from Seattle, or do you have to cross Lake St. Clair? How about pushing up from the keys against a northerly breeze, or getting caught on Ponchartrain? Even the race to the south of Fishers Island can be a pretty miserable body of water at times. But it won’t phase Gemini. The twin hulls have ample freeboard, carry their deadrise all the way aft, and there is just the right amount of beam to permit efficient planing with modest powers. Let’s look at Gemini, starting with the Outboard Profile and Deck Arrangement Plan. This shows that the craft has an ample foredeck with good visibility all around from the cabin. The cabin proper encloses the midships section of the craft, leaving a modest after cockpit which is the full width of the craft. The stern is cut for two longshaft in-line outboard motors of up to 70 hp each. The cabin top is fitted, as shown, with a Solaria-type sunroof. This feature makes a substantially open boat of Gemini, with the cabin roof capable of being opened to the sky. Around the raised cockpit, with its full-width flush deck, is a low rail which provides a distinctive styling effect as well as a measure of safety for the younger members of the crew. The Inboard Profile and Arrangement Plan should be shown to the lady of the family, for the arrangement will certainly convince her that Gemini offers much comfort which will make her boating hours quite enjoyable. Point out to her the wide seats forward, and how they convert to sun lounges or berths, each wider than a studio couch. The headroom forward of the galley counter and the completely enclosed toilet space and dressing compartment is full for most wives, and adequate for all but the tallest men. The size of the rear cockpit is almost enough to qualify it as a “back porch.” Certainly those two chairs will illustrate that trolling over the transom presents no problem. Note how simple boarding the craft can be with a ladder over the transom and the hinged section of cockpit railing on the centerline. We think that some small amount of daydreaming will convince you that Gemini is ideal for most purposes.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

Junior Nine-Footer, The (Pub. No. 5764)

by Edson I. Schock


This is a sailboat that a beginner can build and a child can learn to sail. Just over 9’, she is V-bottom, cat-rigged and made of plywood.

This V-bottom catboat is wide enough to be quite safe for youngsters, yet fast enough to be fun to sail. Anyone with reasonable skill in wood-working should build her without any difficulty.

16 pages, 4 plate(s)

Small Cruising Sloop, A (Pub. No. 5775)

by Edson I. Schock

LOA 27' 11", BEAM 8', DRAFT 5' 6', DISPLACEMENT 7,120 LBS., SAIL AREA 323 SQ. FT.

You’ll have a lot of fun at the helm of this smart-looking little auxiliary. She has nice lines and should step out well under sail.

This boat was designed for the amateur builder with a good grasp of boatbuilding fundamentals and considerable woodworking skill. He should have built a boat or two before trying this one. Ownership of such a boat, however is not limited to the experts. You can have a boatyard build a “planked hull" for you, consisting of the stem, keel, ballast keel, transom, floors, frames, engine bed, shaft hole bored, planking and clamps. From here you take over, decking her and building the cockpit and cabin, doing the interior work and installing spars, rigging and hardware. By starting from a “planked hull,” you eliminate the steaming and the heavy work, and you do the fussy part, which takes a lot of time. Time is what you pay for in a boatyard, so by this method you save a lot on the cost of the finished boat. This is really a very satisfactory way to build a boat.

12 pages, 5 plate(s)

Sea Surrey--A New Type of Catamaran (Pub. No. 5778)

by Gordon P. Manning

LOA 20', BEAM 8'

You can have a picnic aboard this 20’ pleasure barge. With no bilges to pump, you sit back and concentrate on having fun afloat

If you’ve ever wanted to build your own boat but hesitated because of the difficulty of making it watertight—here’s the craft for you. There are no complicated underwater joints to make, because it floats instead on four large blocks of Styrofoam, the miracle flotation material. With few underwater parts to concern you, the job consists mainly of building the plywood deck, floats, rails, canopy and control box. It’s a cinch, because you do straightforward hammer-and-saw carpentry most of the way. The finished catamaran, measuring 20’ long by 8’ wide, is a wonderful pleasure barge for use in protected waters. You just can’t beat it for fishing, swimming, sunning yourself, family picnics and the like. Drawing only 10” of water, it goes anywhere and can be run right up onto the beach. It will take any outboard motor from 10 to 40 hp. The 10-hp Evinrude we used on the pilot model was just perfect, pushing her at an estimated 7 to 8 mph. The complete boat will weigh about 1200 lbs., so you can trail it anywhere with a two-wheel trailer. And remember, cats like this sell on today’s market for two to three times what this one will cost you.

21 pages, 5 plate(s)

Wendy Two--A Featherweight Class 10' Sailing Dingh (Pub. No. 5779)

by Charles Bell

LOA 10', BEAM 4' 3"

An application of the drape mold method of fiberglass construction in which frame members and a muslin drape form the hull shape and are bonded integrally to the fiberglass.

Wendy Two takes her name from a 10’ dinghy I designed for my book, Row To Build Fiberglass Boats. The first boat performed so well that I wanted to do an improved version, embodying some refinements and using a new method of molding. Wendy Two rows well, tows well and sails fast. Her V-bottom, besides being stiff and able, provides a form which can take advantage of the simplest possible FRP construction method—the drape mold. She is extremely lightweight (hull less than 100 pounds) and will cost about $250 to build (including sails) in most metropolitan areas. Drape mold makes use of three forming mold sections as the only throwaway parts; these can usually be made from scrap lumber. Balsa wood keel, stringers, stem and plywood transom together with a muslin drape, form the shape of the boat and become part of the hull to help stiffen the structure. The seats are foam plastic blocks covered with FRP and a facing piece of mahogany veneer; their volume of approximately 4 cubic feet provides 250 pounds of positive flotation in addition to 1 cubic foot or so of balsa in the stringers, etc., which makes the boat safe to race where competing skippers sometimes sail their boats into a capsize. I recommend a sailmaker for the sail although I made my own sail for Wendy which drew well and worked fine; if you intend to race, though, consider that a professional sail is as different from a stock sail as a racing motor differs from a stock engine. Wendy Two will have a smart appearance with her mahogany rudder and seat tops, oak tiller bar and cheek pieces, spruce mast and boom—all finished with clear urethane or epoxy plastic, which will maintain its “just varnished” look for years. Construction is very simple, no lofting to fool with because the dimensions for the transom and mold forms are given in the plans.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

Trivia (Pub. No. 5791)


by William F. Crosby

A stemhead sloop.

John T. Hayward, down in Tulsa, Oklahoma, sailor extraordinary, said not long ago, that if it was possible to design a boat suitable for overnight “cruises” yet small and light enough to go on a trailer, it might become an exceedingly popular craft on some of the big man-made lakes in the southwest. Trivia is just such a craft and represents pretty close to the minimum in size and weight for a cruising boat.     It seems that down through Texas and Oklahoma, they have quite a few good sized lakes with particular reference to the new Lake Texoma which is about sixty or more miles from anywhere and without any facilities as yet for keeping a boat. The result is that in order to go cruising on this lake, you keep your boat at home and when you want to go for a cruise you load it on a trailer on a Friday afternoon and off you go for a life on the water. Comes Sunday night and you reload on the trailer, and Monday morning you’re back home with the boat tucked away in a safe anchorage in the backyard. Of course Trivia will have lots of other uses and does not necessarily have to be used on Lake Texoma. For instance, it would make a swell little boat for a couple of youngsters to cruise the Hudson River or Long Island Sound. We would hardly recommend her for a trip to Bermuda, but she has a wide application for more or less protected waters and is easy enough to build so that the average amateur could undertake her construction, and with ordinary care, he would have a nice little cruiser.

7 pages, 5 plate(s)

Schizo--A Fifteen-Foot Waterline Catamaran (Pub. No. 5792)

by Robert B. Harris

LOA 18' 7 ", BEAM 7' 91/2, DRAFT 1' 01/4", SAIL AREA 176 SWUARE FEET, DISPLACEMENT 900 LBS.

The ever increasing popularity of the catamaran type of sailing craft has brought with it an incessant demand for designs which are within the capability of amateur boatbuilders.

While the construction of a catamaran hull is no more complicated than for a more conventional type craft, there is of course the need for building twin hulls which are opposite hand but otherwise identical. Schizo, the name selected for this little boat is a contraction of schizophrenia, or dual personality, and seems well suited to the craft. This design has been carefully prepared and engineered. It should be followed closely and all details and dimensions adhered to exactly; any radical departures from the design will most certainly result in a faulty craft of uncertain performance. The building procedure and description of methods to be used will be helpful and should be followed as closely as conditions will permit.

6 pages, 6 plate(s)

Small Sailing Dory, A (Pub. No. 5805)

by Edson I. Schock

Generations of lobstermen and commercial fishermen have proved the seaworthiness of the dory design. Here it is as a 13’ sailer, and a trim vessel she is!

The dory has always been a popular type of small craft. It has a reputation as a good sea boat, and boatbuilders generally consider it easy to build. These are qualities that appeal to the amateur builder. This is a small dory, 13’ overall, 5’ beam. Two sail plans are shown, one of 78 sq. ft. of the old—style dory rig and one of 104 sq. ft. in a more modern jib-headed rig. For small children, the dory would be safer; for racing, the larger rig better.

8 pages, 3 plate(s)

Grand Banks 22, The (Pub. No. 5810)

by Edward S. Brewer

Personality plus, and performance too, you’ll find when you take the helm of this salty ketch

Imagine yourself beating up the bay at the helm of this salty little ketch. With her sweeping sheer line, bold clipper bow and picturesque gaff rig, she is a bit of the past brought up to date with modern materials and construction methods. Grand Banks 22 is one of the simplest types of boat to build and can be successfully tackled by anyone familiar with woodworking. When completed, she is a joy to sail, fast and seaworthy, thanks to her modified dory hull. The prototype has been out in 30-knot winds and has proved herself weatherly, stiff and nonpounding. Her versatile ketch rig is quickly shortened down for storm conditions and balances well under a wide variety of sail combinations. Obviously, a boat of this size is not an ocean voyager, but if you want a boat that is easy to build, one that will take wind and water in her stride and doesn’t cost an arm and a leg to own and maintain, then give Grand Banks 22 your serious thought and honest consideration.

14 pages, 7 plate(s)

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