Canoes and Kayaks


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Build your own Canoe (Pub. No. 5020)

(A Canadian Style Wood and Canvas Model) by R.O. Buck With its low ends and flat bottom, which extends well up into bow and stern, this 16-ft., Canadian-type canoe is well adapted to the needs of the average builder. It is used by the forestry service because of its steadiness on the water, ease of paddling and the fact that it is little affected by cross winds on account of its wide beam which is 33. in. amidships. The weight of the finishec canoe will be about 70 or 80 pounds. It is planked in white ceda

16 pages

Puncture Proof Kayak, A (Pub. No. 5022)

While this trim kyack is somewhat heavier than the simple canvas type it is much safer and less likely to become punctured on rocks or stumps because the entire frame is sheathed with plywood and canvas laid over that. One person can easily carry it out of the water, and being relatively short, as kyacks are, it can be transported on the roof or side of a car.

8 pages, 2 plate(s)

Speedy Kayak (Pub. No. 5060)

Built on the Pacific coast, this Kayak is an excellent model to copy because the construction is simple and inexpensive. The light frame, which is 17½ ft. long, is made of white pine and spruce, and, if available, a little mahogany. It is covered with canvas and the completed boat weighs only about 40 lbs

8 pages, 1 plate(s)

Sailing Kayak, A (Pub. No. 5095)

Popularity and ease of construction have made the kayak a favorite with men and women who like to construct their own boats. This 16’ sailing kayak with lateen rig is one of the fastest boats on water, yet it is a safe sailer. It carries 90 square feet of sail.

20 pages, 2 plate(s)

16 Ft Kayak (Pub. No. 5100)

Weight 35 lbs.

Carrying Capacity 3

Decked canoes of the kayak or Eskimo type are especially well adapted for cruising on open water and for use at points to which it is necessary to carry the canoe by automobile. That is because their strength and seaworthiness is out of all proportion to their extremely light construction. The kayak to be described is suited to open-water cruising for one man and outfit or for two men with light camping gear. Although designed primarily for use with the double blade, as are all kayaks, a skillful single-blade canoeist can send it flying with little effort. While the Eskimo covers his craft with skin and while his canoe is usually flat-bottomed, this canoe is canvas-covered and has a molded bottom, which makes it lighter and faster. It is 16 feet long, has a beam of 271/2 inches, and is 11 inches deep amidships. Ready to launch, it weighs about 35 pounds, yet it can carry up to 400 pounds.  With double-bladed paddles, the kayak can be driven at a 41/2-mile-an-hour clip all day and it can be sent over a half-mile course in four minutes, single-blade. It rides the water squarely and runs true, which many a factory canoe does not do.

28 pages, 3 plate(s)

Chieftain--Building a 15 ft Canoe (Pub. No. 5107)

by William D. Jackson

Canoes are customarily difficult to construct being made over special forms, and often, unless one has considerable skill, little success results from amateur construction of canoes, but "Chieftain" utilized a new and proven method of construction that allows this splendid little canoe to be built by any one with ordinary tools in a fraction of the time required for conventional canoes. In addition "Chieftain" has all sorts of desirable features such as extreme lightweight, easy paddling, cheapness and ease of construction. Last but not least this canoe may be built either as a double-end canoe or with changes, as a square stern outboard model canoe, adapting it to any purpose for hunting, fishing, or pleasure use imaginable.

8 pages, 1 plate(s)

How to Build a Kyack (Pub. No. 5128)

by Sam Rabl

Spring time and reminiscences—dreams of years ago and of how as a pair of high school kids we built our first boat. No glorious Spanish argosy looked half so wonderful to our eyes as did that little hooker built over a frame of barrel hoops and strips of cull lumber secured from a nearby box factory. The covering was the unique part of the job. Somewhere we had seen the plans of a boat built from paper and as we could not afford canvas to cover our frame, we covered it with many layers of newspaper. Each layer was pasted to the one beneath it with a mixture of tar filched from a nearby tar barrel and rosin secured from the scrapings of whisky barrels stored behind a neighboring distillery. With fingers blistered from the molten mixture we proud1y launched our creation and much to the surprise of bystanders and ourselves it floated. We used this craft for two seasons. Our next creation was a pair of twin kyacks, this time covered with brown wrapping paper, each layer set down with varnish. A canvas deck kept out the water and for five years we cruised these little hookers into the far reaches of our beloved home waters in Chesapeake Bay. To those to whom a canoe only means a party on the quiet waters of an inland stream the little boat described in this article will have no appeal, but to the man who likes his cruising on rough water and does not want to wait for his weather the kyack will find its greatest appeal.

6 pages, 2 plate(s)

Plyak (Pub. No. 5141)

by David Jordan
Plan revisions by Edwin Monk

Here is an excellent plan for an 11ft. 3 in. plywood-skinned kayak

To the eskimo, a kayak is more than a boat. To him it’s more like an essential garment. When he’s laced into his whale bone and walrus-hide craft, he’s ready for anything in the way of weather, water or what-have-you. To most of us, however, a kayak is for venturing. It’s perfect for poking around uninhabited islands, exploring the bends of a lazy, winding river or just breaking the peaceful surface of a placid lake at sunset. Since whale bone and walrus-hide are rather hard to come by, this "Plyak” has been designed to give the pleasure of a kayak in a boat made from readily available materials. For anyone who has built a boat before, the Plyak should take about 40 man hours to complete. When launched, the Plyak will be an excellent “one-man” boat with possibly one child to “crew.”

6 pages, 2 plate(s)

Seal (Pub. No. 5162)

There’s adventure in every inch of this 16-foot Eskimo kayak.

Here are the luilding plans for a kayak based on the general lines of the canoes used by the Eskimos. "Seal" is essentially a one-man boat but she may be made longer and the cockpit lengthened out a little so that two persons may be accommodated. This may be accomplished by respacing the frames about three or four inches farther apart than shown.

6 pages, 2 plate(s)

Parosa--A 16-Ft. Plywood Kynoe (Pub. No. 5217)

by Sam Rabl

Every other boat in this book was designed with the thought in mind that its crew would probably be of the masculine gender, but this one had its beginning in a strictly feminine set of requirements. Three girls wanted a boat; their reasons were widely divergent, as would be expected. One wanted a boat that could be rowed so that she could reduce some of her excess avoirdupois. The other, so that she could paddle up the creek among the lily pads where romance seemed to abound. The third, a tomboy, wanted the thrill of sailing her own ship in a spanking breeze. As if these requirements were not enough to roll together into one boat, in addition it had to be light enough to handle by themselves in and out of the water, and with enough beam to be safe under a small amount of sail. The result was a cross between a kyack and a canoe and the word kynoe was coined to describe the hybrid. Waterproof plywood was the answer to the weight problem and made the boat so light that one girl alone could pull it up on the beach and two could carry it. The beam is generous enough to work a pair of oars and still not too wide to paddle. The addition of a small dagger board solves the problem of securing enough lateral resistance to sail, and in every part the construction has been simplified.

4 pages, 3 plate(s)

Mohawk (Pub. No. 7004)

by Charles Bell

16’ long, weighs 65 lbs. and has 240 lbs. of built-in flotation

Mohawk is designed especially for light weight and as such must be handled with judgment. You can’t toss a 75-lb. pack into the bottom from the dock, nor can you jump aboard with abandon yourself. She is plenty tough, however, properly handled and will be a joy to carry on those portages. For ordinary use, where no portages are involved, a light slat bottom can be used in the bottom. This consists of about 6 long spruce slats, ¼” x 1½” x full length, held together by a few crossties. This will help protect the bottom and will add another 10 lbs. of weight.

4 page(s)

Kodiak Kayak (Pub. No. 7007)

by Hi Sibley

LOA 15' 8", BEAM 24"

You don’t have to be an Eskimo to build and enjoy this buoyant little craft. And it’s bound to please a water-minded youngster.

If you don’t happen to have any walrus ribs or deer hide handy, you can make a very good facsimile of an Alaskan kayak with plywood, pine and canvas. Here is a model that’s seaworthy as well as light. The cockpit is just aft of amidships to give more buoyancy forward to ride the surf better

4 page(s)

It's Really Easy to Square-Stern Your Canoe (Pub. No. 7038)

by John Gartner

Square off the stern of your Canadian-type canoe to better accept an outboard motor.

Many boating enthusiasts like the traditional Indian watercraft, its silentness, its romance. But when the distance to be covered is great, they long for the back-saving advantages of a motor. Here is a way to fix a canoe so that it loses little of its accepted advantages and gains measurably in efficiency with a motor. Small outboards can be hung over the side of a canoe but at considerable loss of efficiency. If the craft’s stern is squared off, so that the power is applied directly at the rear, it becomes faster and far more maneuverable than with the power applied on the side.

2 page(s)

Eskimo--A 16-Foot All-Plywood Kayak (Pub. No. 7059)

Designed by Charles 0. MacGregor

LOA 15 ft., 10 1/2 in., BEAM 1 ft., 11 in., DEPTH 8 in.

The Kayak is a native of the Arctic, and that one most familiar to us is the small hunting type used by the Greenland Eskimos.
This little craft, as used by the Greenlanders, is about 16 feet long, 16 inches wide and very shallow, little more than 7 inches where the paddler sits. They are very light in weight, but these little fellows perform many daring stunts with them, the most amusing and spectacular being that of turning completely over, under, and up again-smiling. Most of our domestic kayaks are built of canvas stretched over a light frame. This is quite satisfactory and inexpensive, but if one should have a spill and the kayak fills with water, it is generally so wracked and twisted as to be almost beyond repair, particularly if it has been tossed around much. In response to numerous requests we have developed an all-plywood kayak which will be stronger than a canvas hull, will be unsinkable and stand more punishment. It is a little heavier; but this is only a slight disadvantage: The plywood used should be one of the resin-bonded variety for marine use. One manufacturer can supply this in 16 foot panels without a splice.    Generally this costs a few cents more per square foot compared to the standard panel.

3 page(s)

10-Ft. Geodetic Kayak, A (Pub. No. 5313)

by Norman Mayer

Something entirely new in kayak construction, the geodetic framework of this little craft gives an amazing strength-weight ratio. The absence of flat side panels elminates much of the lateral buffeting suffered by other less streamlined types in rough water. It's inexpensive to build.
Geodetic construction is not entirely a new idea, Britain's famed Wellington bombers are built by that principle. It has been known also as "basket weave." Through the use of it, however, any structure, properly designed, can be made stronger and lighter than other comparative types. The principle used consists of a number of light strips twisted around the length of a structure, fastened together wherever they cross, so the entire system resists any local loads or pressures which tend to distort it. This ten foot boat utilizes the "geodetic" principle, so that any one who builds one, will have a strong light craft, capable of weathering heavy seas, and one which can be paddled easily. The streamline design makes the boat easy to maneuver in cross winds and eliminates flat surfaces for waves to break against.

7 pages, 4 plate(s)

Skinney--An 17-Ft. Sailing Canoe (Pub. No. 5396)

A Clever Design for an Attractive and Popular Style of Sailing Craft Which Will Furnish Thrilling Sport, Designed by C. A. Nedwidek

Something a little different is a sailing canoe of the skiff type. No doubt many canoeists have at one time or other had the desire to build and own a sailing canoe, to build a boat of this type on the round bottom style involves quite a bit of boat building experience while to build one as shown on the accompanying plans should be relatively easy.

12 pages, 2 plate(s)

Kingfish Class--A 10-FT. Sailing Canoe, The (Pub. No. 5406)

by Edward Webber

This boat, designed and built approximately two years ago, gave her owner such keen sailing and all-around enjoyment that another was built. Both have raced and sailed the entire season, in rivers, small lakes, Raritan Bay, and Barnegat Bay, and the boating pleasure derived from them has greatly eclipsed the original cost and labor. The construction is simple and the completed boat should not cost much, depending on the locality and materials used. As to materials, I recommend a solid piece of white oak for the keel and, for all other parts, I think it best to allow the builder his own choice. Very little strain or twisting will be found in such a small hull, and the materials used can depend on the pocketbook.

7 pages, 2 plate(s)

Scherzo--A 13-Ft. Sailing Canoe (Pub. No. 5408)

by Edward R. Weber

Sailing this type of canoe is a new and different treat—bounding crazily along close over the water, the seemingly weightless hull will thrash, then skim, like a thing alive, completely mastered by the helmsman yet master herself of the waves and wind. She will prove a fine craft to any who build her. Our lines show a different hull, with more displacement aft than forward, and a good deal of bearing for the greatly increased sail area. The buttocks intimate speed, and it is hoped some planing ability—in a hefty wind and smooth sea. Sheer has been added, to some extent, and the waterlines are much fuller. With the greatly increased beam her dimensions are 13-feet overall length, 40-inches beam, and 101/2-inches depth amidships. We have also a centerboard instead of the old fin-keel, the advantages of which will be obvious. It seems too long ago—before the season had really started—that two small canoes swished heavily through a Barnegat sea, and side by side, with spray flying aft, bounded south under the press of the fresh southeast breeze. Kingfishers they were, and this was one of many similar sails in the past four years. It was cold, and the sky was intermittently blue, then gray, as the two lone occupants—drenched with spray—soared crazily over the surface, their small craft seemingly lost in the waves about them. One canoe seemed deeper in the water and as time wore on she became more and more sluggish, while the other bounded on as lively as ever, her one occupant bellowing madly, “Blow, blow wind, blow!” at the freshening breeze. Soon the slower boat headed for shore, sluggishly, to empty the spray-filled cockpit, as the mad occupant of the faster canoe, with a relatively dry cockpit, shrieked crazily for more of the wind that seemed so perfect. The reasons for this, once fathomed, resulted after some months of work in the completion of this design. We realized then that 20-pounds difference in weight, in a small 10-foot canoe, could mean the difference between a spray-filling slow boat and a light bounding hull that went to windward like a gull—especially in one of those cold strong winds on Barnegat Bay early in the Spring. Here in this design are the results of this and many more lessons learned in our earlier 10-foot Kingfisher canoes—and a far better sailor than the author finally brought them to light. Scherzo is thus named for that sailor—and musician—who stands for all that is fine in life as in sailing—clean living and fair winds. You will undoubtedly see him should you visit Barnegat Bay—bounding about in a small canoe and shrieking wildly for more wind.

8 pages, 5 plate(s)

Canoe Built from Siding (Pub. No. 5457)

by George Daniels

Two cedar clapboards and a panel of plywood are the major materials for this floating beauty.

You don’t have to be a boatbuilder to make this 65-pound, 16-foot canoe in a weekend. The cedar-clapboard sides produce and hold the hull shape when they are bent around the midframe and joined at the ends. Fit in the wedge-shaped stems at bow and stern, fasten on the bottom panels of 1/4/" exterior plywood, and you actually have a floatable boat after about two hours’ work.

12 pages, 1 plate(s)

Motor Canoe, A (Pub. No. 5465)

by M.E. Daniels

This 16-ft. motor canoe can do everything an ordinary canoe can do and a lot more. You can paddle it, row it or sail it--but the real fun comes in powering it with the smallest kicker you can buy anc cruising all day on a gallon of gas. If you're the outdoor type, and not too much taller than 6 ft., you can also sleep aboard. The amble beam, flat bottom and hard chines give her a tip resistance that's hard to belive, and added buoyancy can be gained with the installation of optional sytrofoam stabilizng fins.

6 pages, 2 plate(s)

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